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Secondary fuse block

Started by Coral58, March 11, 2023, 02:36:48 PM

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Coral58

Would like to install a secondary fuse block,reasonably close to the original one, to allow for, hidden sound system, electric fuel pump for priming and backup use,or future accessories. Want to tap into ignition power, when key is on. 58 Cad. 60 Special.

J. Gomez

Quote from: Coral58 on March 11, 2023, 02:36:48 PMWould like to install a secondary fuse block,reasonably close to the original one, to allow for, hidden sound system, electric fuel pump for priming and backup use,or future accessories. Want to tap into ignition power, when key is on. 58 Cad. 60 Special.

Ivan,

It would depend "IF" you have to original wiring and "HOW" much load are you planning on adding to the second fuse panel. ???

If your load is going to be heavy going directly to the ignition switch "ON" position to feed the second fuse panel would put the switch in jeopardy of overload.

I would suggest protecting the ign. Switch by powering a relay from the switch and having the main +12V power for the second fuse panel feed from the relay contacts from the main "red" power wire at the switch.

Again the above layout could also be problematic if you have the original wiring as it could overload old wiring.

You need to do a bit of homework first to make sure there are no surprises in the future.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

Coral58

I've had a suggestion to take power
from the positive from the coil.Not sure if  that would cause any problems.    If taking from the ignition, how to  connect to the ignition wire, with out disturbing too much, to connect a relay.         Sounds like you know your stuff.

J. Gomez

Quote from: Coral58 on March 11, 2023, 06:18:28 PMI've had a suggestion to take power
from the positive from the coil.Not sure if  that would cause any problems.    If taking from the ignition, how to  connect to the ignition wire, with out disturbing too much, to connect a relay.         Sounds like you know your stuff.

Ivan,

First "DO NOT" use the + side of the coil to setup this modification, if you have the OEM ignition layout the + side of the coil will get the voltage drop from the ballast resistor once the engine is running.

Depending on where you are planning on installing the add-on fuse panel you will need to care for the proper wire gauge (depending on the total load plan for the new fuse panel) and the relay contact rate to handle the load.

I'm attaching a rough diagram for reference on my comments above.

The switched side for the relay can be splice/hook up to the "pink" wire coming from the ign. switch (if you have the wiring diagram there are several fuses that are feed from this wire).

The main +12V for the new fuse panel can be splice/hook-up to any of the "red" direct feed existing wires (again you have to care on not overloading the existing wiring with the new fuse panel) or run a new one to the main battery + feed. 

One note is the OEM wiring was borderline in handling the power load when new and with age and usage it got degraded to keep the same load.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

TJ Hopland

If you are adding loads you want to get your new fuse block tapped as close to the battery or battery cable as possible, you don't want to be adding anything except maybe a relay to the original wires. 

If you upgrade the main feed wire going into the car that is a different story but involves changing the original parts of the car which may or may not be a direction you want to go.  You also have to make sure the entire path has been replaced and upgraded.  Doesn't do any good to put bigger wires in if there is something like a bulkhead connector or amp meter in the circuit. 

Adding a new 'aux' fuse box and feed is just an add so could be easily un done if anyone ever wanted to.  You could even take some of the original loads off the original stuff and move them to the new block.

Painless sells just what you are looking for.  They make slight variants so you should be able to find just what you want.
https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/fuse     
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

bcroe

I would take the above advice, look for a heavy
duty +12V junction between the battery, the
starter, and the V reg output.  At that point
use a proper fuseable link to feed the new
relay, which then goes to the new junction box
and loads. 

While I was in there, I would see that all other
loads from the 12V junction have fuseable links,
and avoid a possible fire as on my 64. 
good luck, Bruce Roe

fishnjim

Pretty much a no brainer, but I'm an old engineer.
Just use the right gauge wire for the amps, there's a chart, and run off the battery with a circuit breaker.   I put in my '58.  There's not enough room in the OEM, they already combined circuits improperly, not meet current codes.  You connect the ignition power to a relay and relay turns on your device power, otherwise always hot.  Don't load up the ignition switch.  It's feeding the ballast resister and coil already.
I have a relay for the electric fuel pump and another for the electric choke/  I made an under hood junction mount out of a piece of black polymer sheet and put the fuse block under the OEM.  I had to change when I put the classic stereo in as the new power antenna contacts won't stand the amperage.  The antenna is driven off the old radio connector and a rocker switch.  Had to make escutcheon for switch but used existing dash hole and mounted my tach and volt meter next door.
You can buy components at Dell City or Waytek, etc.  Get some of those nice little red relay covers so you don't shock yourself working on it.

Chopper1942

Call Painless Wiring.  They have a large selection of specialty electrical items.  I'm sure they can supply you with what you will need.  Talk to a technical specialist.

Coral58