I posted the preliminary work within another thread which didn't have anything to do with spark plug wire looms. As some know I was in the process of changing my timing chain and intake manifold on mt 1979 Eldorado. A lot of Oldsmobile engines use the same looms. The particularly special one is the one on the driver side where the nr 7 plug wire is offset specifically so the wires are separated around the oil dipstick.
I just got the professionally 3D printed version back from the printer and they look fantastic. They're already on the car but I wanted to share some comparison photos. I did make them a little thicker than stock on purpose because the stock looms seem to be thin in the area where they get pushed over the metal brackets. Both of my originals had damage in that area.
I've had Olds engines for years and almost all I recall from the 70's and 80's used these. I don't even know if they were available "back-in-the-day" and I have no idea what the PNs were (left is offset and right is "normal"). I always liked finding a car which still had these because it seemed like a part which often ended-up missing after a tune-up.
I do have a 1975 Olds engine on a stand which looks like a time capsule and it does have covers over these. As well there is a series of double wire keepers which are not attached to a bracket. That engine has "Packard" spark plug wires.
The second photo has the OE part directly under mine.
it took about the half gallon to get just under the neck of the radiator (with empty surge tank) before starting, and then the level dropped after roughly a minute, and it took some more.
about 2 minutes in, I turned on the primary fan (the ac fan was already running).
Several minutes in, I switched it from AC to max heat. About that time, I put the cap on the radiator.
I think it was about 12 minutes in that it hit 170, and then went up about 10 degrees/minute.
It seemed to stabilized, fluctuating at around 212, about 15 minutes in, but then started creeping up.
and at 18.5 minutes, it started flooding into the overflow tank, quickly filling it and flowing out the top.
At that point I killed it, even though it was still blowing cold, and the AC was still blowing cold.
early on, I looked around for white smoke from the exhaust, and didn't even see any visible exhaust.
The block was just under 130F, measured next to the "F" in "Firing Order" at the end.
oh, and that was the compressor, not the alternator, that looked like it was slipping. It turned on and off a lot for the first couple of minutes.
I went out about 15 minutes later to turn the fan off. The block was at about 170. the overflow tank was about an inch above "full cold". I turned it on, and my exhaust was nice and clear (I had to crawl down close to even see the distortion in the air!)
Quote from: 2 Devilles on Today at 04:03:16 PMI've got their 2" kit on my '60 with the standard shocks, and it rides great. Not stock good, but a lot better than one would expect. Bilsteins are top notch shocks, and I've got them on some of my higher performance rides. For the Cadillac, I didn't think it was necessary. Just my 2 cents.
Thank you very much! I saw this car today (he is lowered 3" front and back) and I really like the look and want to do it. I have the Bilsteins on my sports cars, and wasn't sure if was needed on the Caddy. Appreciate the help. Any photos of yours?