Hello there,
In love with my new beauty. 67 Deville Convertible, red interior. Wife and kids love it. Trying to add a couple of pics here.
Question, anybody in Los Angles/ SFV/ Santa Clarita that specializes or works on these things? I would like to go to someone who knows these.
Apprecaite the help and looking forward to learning a lot here.
G'day Ryan,
You have an email from the Moderators that requires your attention.
Thanks,
Bruce. >:D
Thank you Bruce! I hope I fixed it and following the rules.
Beautifully done,
Thanks,
Bruce. >:D
Hi Ryan,
Many times when an issue occurs a member will post questions and others will help diagnose. In many cases, with the assistance given, you can either try s repair yourself or at least further the diagnostic work. If you do not feel comfortable with trying something yourself you will generally have a better feel for what is involved and you will likely have more information to assist a shop.
If others closer to your area don't have any suggestions I've sold some parts to the 70's EFI vehicles, 75-80, to shops in the LA area. Those are newer than your car but a shop willing to work on them may still be a good place to start as they are still at least 40+ years old.
Very nice looking car and cool color combination!
Welcome to the forum,
Scott
I have been using "Cesar" for years on my 75' Eldo and 57' T-Bird.
He prefers working on old cars (Caddies and Porsches).
He does not have his own shop, is booked weeks ahead, but his work is very good and rates are very reasonable.
He lives in the Canoga Park area.
Just mention my name (Gary King) and his # (818) 836-8162.
Quote from: 79 Eldorado on May 04, 2022, 11:37:06 PM
Hi Ryan,
Many times when an issue occurs a member will post questions and others will help diagnose. In many cases, with the assistance given, you can either try s repair yourself or at least further the diagnostic work. If you do not feel comfortable with trying something yourself you will generally have a better feel for what is involved and you will likely have more information to assist a shop.
If others closer to your area don't have any suggestions I've sold some parts to the 70's EFI vehicles, 75-80, to shops in the LA area. Those are newer than your car but a shop willing to work on them may still be a good place to start as they are still at least 40+ years old.
Very nice looking car and cool color combination!
Welcome to the forum,
Scott
Thank you very much. Car sat for 9 years, before I got it. I want to go through the cooling system, get some new oil in (what type of oil do these land yatchs like) , and get the AC looked at (blows warm).
Appreciate the help
Quote from: KOKNEYELDO on May 05, 2022, 11:30:18 AM
I have been using "Cesar" for years on my 75' Eldo and 57' T-Bird.
He prefers working on old cars (Caddies and Porsches).
He does not have his own shop, is booked weeks ahead, but his work is very good and rates are very reasonable.
He lives in the Canoga Park area.
Just mention my name (Gary King) and his # (818) 836-8162.
Thank you so much Gary! I will call him . I have no problem with time. Does he do mobile work?
Ryan,
I would search for other posts regarding oil. If you ask that question you will get a flood of replies and it's been discussed ad nauseam in the past. There has been a lot of good discussion though. There was one recently which included additives. If you search zddp and oil as your search terms you will find one of the discussions.
Wix filters seem to be very well respected and NAPA Gold are WIX filters. I normally wait for NAPA to have a sale and I buy my filters and my choice of oil there.
Regarding the AC you will need to diagnose what's going on. There's someone on the site who published a supplemental manual for some of the Cadillac systems around your year. I don't know what years he's created documentation for but I've heard it's very well done and very well respected. Even if you have someone else work on the car, if he (Tim) has a book on your vehicle I would suggest getting a copy. I don't think his work covers one of my vehicles but if someone provides more detail regarding how to get a copy I've thought about buying one because I suspect it would be interesting to see regardless.
Scott
Quote from: 79 Eldorado on May 05, 2022, 10:11:28 PM
Ryan,
I would search for other posts regarding oil. If you ask that question you will get a flood of replies and it's been discussed ad nauseam in the past. There has been a lot of good discussion though. There was one recently which included additives. If you search zddp and oil as your search terms you will find one of the discussions.
Wix filters seem to be very well respected and NAPA Gold are WIX filters. I normally wait for NAPA to have a sale and I buy my filters and my choice of oil there.
Regarding the AC you will need to diagnose what's going on. There's someone on the site who published a supplemental manual for some of the Cadillac systems around your year. I don't know what years he's created documentation for but I've heard it's very well done and very well respected. Even if you have someone else work on the car, if he (Tim) has a book on your vehicle I would suggest getting a copy. I don't think his work covers one of my vehicles but if someone provides more detail regarding how to get a copy I've thought about buying one because I suspect it would be interesting to see regardless.
Scott
Thank you Scott! You are right about the oil. Search shows 10w40 so I will stick with that.
I am thinking of putting aluminum radiator. AC compressor kicks in but hot air. Will chrck freon
Thanks again.
Loving my land yatch
Quote from: KOKNEYELDO on May 05, 2022, 11:30:18 AM
I have been using "Cesar" for years on my 75' Eldo and 57' T-Bird.
He prefers working on old cars (Caddies and Porsches).
He does not have his own shop, is booked weeks ahead, but his work is very good and rates are very reasonable.
He lives in the Canoga Park area.
Just mention my name (Gary King) and his # (818) 836-8162.
Thanks Gary
Talked to Ceasar. Seems like a 4 month wait. He told me to call in 4 weeks to see any updates.
I have a local guy that someone recommended to - I will call him as well.
First and foremost, get the 1967 Cadillac Shop Manual --- easy to find on eBay. Even if you don't use it, your mechanic may benefit from having one. The originals, as opposed to the reprints, usually have better quality illustrations.
For the AC manuals --- Cadillac Tim. He has several for different year systems, he will have one for your '67.
https://cadillactim.com/
Quote from: 35-709 on May 06, 2022, 08:27:03 PM
First and foremost, get the 1967 Cadillac Shop Manual --- easy to find on eBay. Even if you don't use it, your mechanic may benefit from having one. The originals, as opposed to the reprints, usually have better quality illustrations.
For the AC manuals --- Cadillac Tim. He has several for different year systems, he will have one for your '67.
https://cadillactim.com/
Thank you and excellent info! Will order both now
Ryan,
I don't have a '67 Cadillac but it surprises me a bit that the recommended oil weight isn't 10W-30. I thought that was generally the standard for a long time. I don't think discussing the weight will be controversial (I could be wrong). One thing I've read is the closer the low and high numbers are the less viscosity modifiers are needed. From what I read the additives which modify the weight are like tiny coils. As the oil is used those tiny coils break down. As they break down the oil loses it's ability to change viscosity as intended. The conclusion I came away with was the smaller the difference between the low and the high number the longer the oil would typically maintain stability, able to achieve, the intended viscosity.
I don't know the old AC systems that well but a sign of low charge on systems made it the 80's-90's is a short cycling compressor. There was a low charge detection system I helped with which counted the number of cycles and if it counted over a certain number of cycles in less than 1 or 2 minutes a light would show on the control head indicating low charge. When you say your compressor clutch is engaging, if it stays engaged and doesn't short-cycle, your issue might be something like a temp door which is in the wrong position. The AC loop can work perfectly but if a blend or temp door is stuck in the wrong position you may only feel hot air. It looks like the link for Tim's site was posted so I would buy his manual for your car before drawing conclusions. I would also second buying an original FSM. You will likely see aftermarket manuals as well when you search. I would avoid them. Sometimes the information is accurate but I've seen and heard examples where the information is wrong. The aftermarket manuals may also show photos as examples but not from the same car.
Regarding the radiator I do like Aluminum radiators but for a 1967 it would be my preference to keep the OE look. That will be very difficult if you buy an Aluminum radiator. I would see if there's someone in your area which can still re-core a radiator. When a radiator is re-cored they use your original tanks and you get a new radiator core. Because that was really something only done with Cu-Brass radiators places which re-core are getting very hard to find. If you do go with Aluminum I would keep your OE Cu-Brass because someone, even you, may want to go back to the original. If you go to Aluminum also be aware the spacing for the transmission cooler lines might be slightly different (You may need to re-work the lines a bit to get them to fit).
Scott
Hello Scott,
Thanks for a great post! I appreciate how welcoming and kind and informative everyone has been on this forum for a newbie like me.
I am voraciously reading and learning all about the new Caddy! I figure in the long run if I change the oil frequently enough I should be ok.
I am not looking to make my 67 a show car. It will be 3-4 days a week workhorse. I just want to make sure it is as reliable as a modern car be made.
Yeah my AC issue seems like more a door issue as you mentioned. Clutch is definitely staying engaged but hot air is coming. Old owner said it was cold last summer - so he suspects all freon leaked out (who knows)
I have found a great local place to recore the radiator (another 67 owner on this forum used them), so I am takign it there on Tuesday to see what they can do. I rather not just throw cheap aluminum in it, but rather keep it original and functional as you said.
I hope to keep the caddy for a long time as I wanted this one black/red for a bit. It isn't perfect , but it is mine, and the drive is so sublime, I ask myself why did I spent all these years in Lexus LS cars instead of a Caddy!!!
Quote from: 79 Eldorado on May 07, 2022, 01:25:53 PM
Ryan,
I don't have a '67 Cadillac but it surprises me a bit that the recommended oil weight isn't 10W-30. I thought that was generally the standard for a long time. I don't think discussing the weight will be controversial (I could be wrong). One thing I've read is the closer the low and high numbers are the less viscosity modifiers are needed. From what I read the additives which modify the weight are like tiny coils. As the oil is used those tiny coils break down. As they break down the oil loses it's ability to change viscosity as intended. The conclusion I came away with was the smaller the difference between the low and the high number the longer the oil would typically maintain stability, able to achieve, the intended viscosity.
I don't know the old AC systems that well but a sign of low charge on systems made it the 80's-90's is a short cycling compressor. There was a low charge detection system I helped with which counted the number of cycles and if it counted over a certain number of cycles in less than 1 or 2 minutes a light would show on the control head indicating low charge. When you say your compressor clutch is engaging, if it stays engaged and doesn't short-cycle, your issue might be something like a temp door which is in the wrong position. The AC loop can work perfectly but if a blend or temp door is stuck in the wrong position you may only feel hot air. It looks like the link for Tim's site was posted so I would buy his manual for your car before drawing conclusions. I would also second buying an original FSM. You will likely see aftermarket manuals as well when you search. I would avoid them. Sometimes the information is accurate but I've seen and heard examples where the information is wrong. The aftermarket manuals may also show photos as examples but not from the same car.
Regarding the radiator I do like Aluminum radiators but for a 1967 it would be my preference to keep the OE look. That will be very difficult if you buy an Aluminum radiator. I would see if there's someone in your area which can still re-core a radiator. When a radiator is re-cored they use your original tanks and you get a new radiator core. Because that was really something only done with Cu-Brass radiators places which re-core are getting very hard to find. If you do go with Aluminum I would keep your OE Cu-Brass because someone, even you, may want to go back to the original. If you go to Aluminum also be aware the spacing for the transmission cooler lines might be slightly different (You may need to re-work the lines a bit to get them to fit).
Scott
Hello Ryan,
You may want to try E & E Automotive Service and Repair in Santa Monica, CA. The owner has lots of mid-sixties Cadillac experience. Good luck.
Quote from: 67caddyLAI am not looking to make my 67 a show car. It will be 3-4 days a week workhorse.
If it is a driver, you might want to enhance the switch
pitch transmission performance, with an electronic
controller. Bruce Roe
I believe 67s did have Sw/p
Greg Surfas
UPDATE:
Well bad news today. After putting 1200 enjoyable miles, driving 65 mph, overheated. Pulled over right away. Had to go to a office meeting.
Towed her home. Will not start. Battery fully charged. She turns over "waaah waaah waaah" but wont catch to start.
Popped the distributor open - everything turns inside.
Wonder if cylinder lost compression or motor needs rebuild :(
Quote from: gnorden on May 09, 2022, 11:45:54 AM
Hello Ryan,
You may want to try E & E Automotive Service and Repair in Santa Monica, CA. The owner has lots of mid-sixties Cadillac experience. Good luck.
Thank you, I will call him now. Looks like my Caddy needs more help than just a new radiator core.
Ryan,
You need to figure out why it over heated. Once it cooled down did you verify there is coolant? If it happened at 65mph it seems either you lost coolant, the thermostat stuck closed or the radiator is so plugged there just not much active surface area.
The "waah, waah, waah" reads like a very slow waah......waah......waah. If the battery is charge and all connections are good I think I might pull all of the spark plugs. I wonder if there's a chance you blew a head gasket and there's coolant in the combustion chambers.
Let me guess...Cadillac thought, even in 67, a temperature gauge was too much information for a Cadillac owner. That's one thing I don't like about my '79. I've had too many issues over the years with cars which I noticed seeing strange readings from the temp gauge before it actually developed into a real problem. Anyway I started to ask if you noticed something on the temp gauge.
A couple of stupid questions:
How did you realize it over heated? In 67 there was no overflow so radiators do seek their own "full" level which often does not appear full.
How do you know the battery is fully charged? I've had at least one battery, stored with an Optima charger, which appeared to read the proper voltage and 100% but give a slow waah waah immediately upon installing. When I placed it back on the charger it read 25%. That battery would appear to charge to 100% again but, once "charged", it lacked the CCA to turn over a matchbox size engine. Considering what happened I would check everything thoroughly to avoid more damage but you may want to try another battery once you verify everything else is normal.
Any chance the starter got a coolant bath? I had a starter fail once where finally one of the wires burned through in the windings but before it completely failed it acted like a bad battery. I was convinced it was. The shop I went to was good enough to take the starter apart and found the problem.
Scott
Thank you so much for the reply!
Once cooled down, no coolant. Had to fill the radiator back up . Definitely lost coolant.
I initially thought battery was not charged. Fully jumped it with a brand new Toyota Tacoma - no start. Still just making the "waaa waaa" starting noise.
Then I took the battery and charged it fully overnight. Same result. No start.
Battery is 7 months old.
I did not pull the spark plugs. I am getting on a flight for Nashville GOOD GUYS show, so I will have to to pull the plugs on Monday when I am back home.
The temp gauge was moving, when I realized hey its overheating, literally I started taking the exit, and smoke everywhere.
Very possible everything took a coolant bath, though all the coolant looks on right fender only. Rest of motor looks ok (visually) - no huge coolant bath.
Quote from: 79 Eldorado on May 11, 2022, 08:00:33 PM
Ryan,
You need to figure out why it over heated. Once it cooled down did you verify there is coolant? If it happened at 65mph it seems either you lost coolant, the thermostat stuck closed or the radiator is so plugged there just not much active surface area.
The "waah, waah, waah" reads like a very slow waah......waah......waah. If the battery is charge and all connections are good I think I might pull all of the spark plugs. I wonder if there's a chance you blew a head gasket and there's coolant in the combustion chambers.
Let me guess...Cadillac thought, even in 67, a temperature gauge was too much information for a Cadillac owner. That's one thing I don't like about my '79. I've had too many issues over the years with cars which I noticed seeing strange readings from the temp gauge before it actually developed into a real problem. Anyway I started to ask if you noticed something on the temp gauge.
A couple of stupid questions:
How did you realize it over heated? In 67 there was no overflow so radiators do seek their own "full" level which often does not appear full.
How do you know the battery is fully charged? I've had at least one battery, stored with an Optima charger, which appeared to read the proper voltage and 100% but give a slow waah waah immediately upon installing. When I placed it back on the charger it read 25%. That battery would appear to charge to 100% again but, once "charged", it lacked the CCA to turn over a matchbox size engine. Considering what happened I would check everything thoroughly to avoid more damage but you may want to try another battery once you verify everything else is normal.
Any chance the starter got a coolant bath? I had a starter fail once where finally one of the wires burned through in the windings but before it completely failed it acted like a bad battery. I was convinced it was. The shop I went to was good enough to take the starter apart and found the problem.
Scott
You may have just have blown a coolant hose. After
some bad experiences, I replace these every 4 years,
cause I HATE FAILURES. Bruce Roe
Quote from: bcroe on May 11, 2022, 09:29:06 PM
You may have just have blown a coolant hose. After
some bad experiences, I replace these every 4 years,
cause I HATE FAILURES. Bruce Roe
That would be the ideal scenario!
but with radiator full - would a coolant hose being blown stop it from starting?
You will have to figure it out. Those points ignitions
were easy to wet down and not run, another thing I
did not like about them. Bruce Roe
overheat diagnosis
THANKS everybody! Trying to diagnosis this.
Without plugs in there, crank - it now spews coolant out bunch of cylinders.
Sorry to here that news. It will need to go to a shop for repair. Interesting that it would blow head gaskets on both sides. I truly hope it is not a serious problem with the engine.
Thanks wayne
That IS BAD news.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: 67caddyLA on May 27, 2022, 12:09:53 PM
overheat diagnosis
THANKS everybody! Trying to diagnosis this.
Without plugs in there, crank - it now spews coolant out bunch of cylinders.
Ryan,
It could be head gaskets but as Wayne wrote it seems strange it would blow both head gaskets. I once bought a used engine for parts where the owner stored it with less than ideal coolant and the water froze and cracked the block in multiple places; freeze plugs didn't save it. That's a worst case scenario but you need to have it checked out thoroughly and carefully. Do not just assume it's the head gaskets. Worse than doing head gaskets is paying to do them on an engine with a cracked block.
It's bad news but if the car is in very good condition and you decide to keep it, I would, you will end-up with a new engine and built exactly as you prefer. I found the following site with the specifics to application for their remanufactured engines:
https://remanufactured.com/Cadillac_Engines.htm
Sorry to hear the news.
Scott
Hi guys
Will update shortly more details
What water pump you guys recommend?
Update
I pulled the Cylinder heads off and I found the left side Head-gasket blown but couldn't find anything with the right side Head-gasket I found right side push Rods bent and lifter's collapsed
I'm going to send the heads to machine shop so they can check the heads further
water got between piston rings and cylinders and piston rings washed away all the lubricant and The Cylinder block on some Cylinders is scored .
debating if i should just clean it and live with some blow by or do a full pistons and rings?
Engine looks like it was rebuilt before- but sat for 8 years
Oh well car is keeper. Deciding what to do once I hear from head shop
i have photos not sure how to post
Ryan,
I recentlt gotten a '67 as well and had a coolant issue right off the bat. I found that the AC (if running) can cause overheating if running for extended periods. So when you get it back running monitor that aspect. Sorry to hear.
Quote from: Snibbor on June 01, 2022, 02:11:30 PMRyan,
I recentlt gotten a '67 as well and had a coolant issue right off the bat. I found that the AC (if running) can cause overheating if running for extended periods. So when you get it back running monitor that aspect. Sorry to hear.
exa Exactly what happened to me. Car ran perfectly fine. It's only when I turned on the AC it overheated which led to all these issues now.
sigh no dreams last .... couldnt find anybody want to work on 67
hard to find parts
motor caput
A lot of shops would likely rather work on newer things where there is no question regarding parts. It seems you could take it to your local NAPA and they would send it out for rebuild. You would just need to remove/install. That shouldn't be anything too scary for most shops. I would at least ask NAPA. Some of the other parts stores also use Jasper. Jasper is very good but it seems near impossible to find any details regarding engines they do and their pricing.
Scott
Quote from: 79 Eldorado on August 29, 2022, 01:33:12 PMA lot of shops would likely rather work on newer things where there is no question regarding parts. It seems you could take it to your local NAPA and they would send it out for rebuild. You would just need to remove/install. That shouldn't be anything too scary for most shops. I would at least ask NAPA. Some of the other parts stores also use Jasper. Jasper is very good but it seems near impossible to find any details regarding engines they do and their pricing.
Scott
Yeah seems like parts for 67 not easy to find
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here it is now
does this forum now allow image uploads anymore?
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(https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2022/08/29/1661789577_a8d94083-4726-4908-b0cc-13f6f5212c2c_mmthumb.jpeg)
The two local mechanics that were recommended here
1) told me throw away motor put LS into it.
2) said 4 months wait to see him.
One of the things I am thinking is - car overheated = motor died. After the rebuild - do I need to recore the radiator and work on that part of cooling?
Pics of rebuild...
continues... E93E73A6-7326-46DD-AD14-BEB3B1BBA6EB.jpeg
she is done
time to install
Time to install nowcaddy done.jpg
Motor is in.
Waterpump is out for a rebuild - 10 days.
Radiator is out for a recore - 3 days
IMG_2390.jpgIMG_2389.jpgIMG_8418.jpg
recore done
this is the old one
4F8F4105-A87E-478D-B8F2-6E58A2BE3BDC.jpeg
time for her first detail
E8358FEB-AE51-4256-AA84-FBAFF09C5A79.jpeg99500E13-4828-4472-B4BE-C15B2CBF19AC.jpeg29B38501-57CE-424F-B892-BE1DD3A25C36.jpeg
progress
7E31B153-7FA4-4FBB-B08F-98AFB547BF14.jpeg940F8BDD-4C63-4BE5-BFD0-9443FA4F44E2.jpeg2F3DCCF1-E9E4-4597-95FC-CE444CFAC53A.jpeg940F8BDD-4C63-4BE5-BFD0-9443FA4F44E2.jpeg4C356C57-510B-4691-8965-9AD2AD0F849F.jpegC1CE87FB-4198-485B-ACF5-A25537E0FBB5.jpeg4C356C57-510B-4691-8965-9AD2AD0F849F.jpeg
finally put the top down for the first time
029EDEC0-0DAF-4F09-9682-73BD793672E4.jpeg65AEE917-EDE2-4D13-BD9C-1764267B4573.jpeg22D4648A-CCB7-49D7-A9CE-B71CD1BC3B6F.jpeg
New front seats are re done.
Will have to do top in the next year.
Need a new waterpump. 2 failed, still leaking.
The 429 water pumps are known to leak at the fat o-ring when replacing the pump . Using 2 of those o-rings (I used the old one plus the new one) and a small amount of RTV usually fixes the problem. Probably wouldn't even need the RTV but as a "just-in-case" it won't hurt anything and taking off that pump and reinstalling gets tiresome.
Quote from: 35-709 on October 05, 2023, 07:22:34 PMThe 429 water pumps are known to leak at the fat o-ring when replacing the pump . Using 2 of those o-rings (I used the old one plus the new one) and a small amount of RTV usually fixes the problem. Probably wouldn't even need the RTV but as a "just-in-case" it won't hurt anything and taking off that pump and reinstalling gets tiresome.
going to try this
I should say that I know zero about the 67 specific water pump but in general stacking seals is not normally a reliable means of sealing. I don't know if it's possible but it might be better to create a shim and then place a seal on either side of the shim. So if that fat o-ring is the issue then would it be possible to use a seal on the pump, a shim, and then another seal from the shim to the block?
Other than leaking a double seal can cause an area to breath. I used a double gasket once on a thermostat housing and I could see on the temp gauge the system seemed to be pulling in air sometimes. It seems like it would be impossible but absence of a pressure leak does not guarantee that there are no vacuum leaks. Because coolant expands and contracts you could end-up with a situation like I had (it seems).
Specifically for coolant Permatex recommends Ultra Blue as their best.
Scott
Quote from: 35-709 on October 05, 2023, 07:22:34 PMThe 429 water pumps are known to leak at the fat o-ring when replacing the pump . Using 2 of those o-rings (I used the old one plus the new one) and a small amount of RTV usually fixes the problem. Probably wouldn't even need the RTV but as a "just-in-case" it won't hurt anything and taking off that pump and reinstalling gets tiresome.
Just spoke to the mechanic this morning. He says that I had printed out your suggestion of two O rings and he had done that already.
::) Worked great on my '66 429.
I have not used this guy but I have chatted with him.
Seems like a cool shop https://ricksclassicmusclegarage.com
He says he does general repairs to classics.
In Burbank.
Quote from: 35-709 on October 06, 2023, 08:18:59 PM::) Worked great on my '66 429.
Seems like issue is the crossover is corroded and leaking badly
Quote from: Abe Lugo on October 07, 2023, 08:30:42 PMI have not used this guy but I have chatted with him.
Seems like a cool shop https://ricksclassicmusclegarage.com
He says he does general repairs to classics.
In Burbank.
Thank you very much!