Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1968 Eldorado 472 oil pan ...

Last post by shadetree39 - Today at 01:17:57 PM

Re: the freeze plugs. My local independent auto store has a huge Dorman supply and he typically sells the the plugs .015 (1/64") oversize for example; the 9/16 opening for A.I.R. in the heads would take a 37/64 plug.
Had to drive them in.

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1970 flooding issue?

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 01:04:53 PM

Leaking plugs or a float issue really don't fit his symptoms.  He says it starts fine then after a few moments loads up.  Then once it gets past that its fine. 

Leaking plugs cause a starting issue and you usually eventually get a rough start but after a moment it cleans up and then is fine, pretty much opposite what he says is happening.

On the float front unless he has an electric pump its not going to leak while the engine isn't running and even if it did it would tend to cause starting issues.  Electric or mech pump and a float issue would likely continue to be a problem at a warm idle which he says isn't the case.

The choke pull off really fits his symptoms.  Engine will fire with the choke completely shut but if it doesn't slightly open as the engine starts it can't get enough air.  The reason it eventually cleans up is the thermal action eventually starts to open it so that is why at some point things go back to normal   

#3

General Discussion / Re: Way too long overdue upgra...

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 01:02:29 PM

Rick,

Since I did all of the hardness re-wire on my car I've also upgraded to a larger gauge wire for all of the long run power sources, so the main +12V "red" wire for the windows hardness is 12 gauge up to the switches versus the old 14 gauge.

Since I recondition all of the motors and the windows channels were also redone these were not an issue, the switches were finicky even after recondition them as well. Sometime they worked fine other times I had to apply a bit of pressure as the motor were a bit slow, but jumping the connector(s) the motor and windows were fine.

Well I'm impartial on were these are manufacture as long as they are functional, I tend to go a bit higher in the rating just to be in the safe side, just in case a 30A on their side is actually 20A on our side.
Even if a product is advertised as "Made in the USA" one has to read the fine print to notice package here but made in some other place. 

Increasing the size of wire for the windows is a good idea. I don't remember if I had done that when I made my new harness, I'd have to dig it out and check it out again to know for sure.
  I have already gone through the window motors, and replaced the wiring from the windings to the connector. The windings themselves were fine.
  The glass channels will also be replaced when I get that far.
I think my window switches are in good shape after going through them. I had two different designs, and I'm guessing that it's due to a first and second design. I picked the one that looked more reliable and went through all of them. And I still have the other set as backup if necessary.

  Yes you must read the package. Some sorry SOB decided that to make a buck they could slap a flag on it and claim that it was made here, with "from foreign and domestic parts" in fine print. And the percentage of US made content only had to be something like 30%. Disgusting and should be illegal!! But hey, what do I know!!

  Rick

#4

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1981 Eldorado V8-6-4 ECM s...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 12:52:26 PM

If the 'running' one wasn't hanging loose you could maybe just hope that someone was collecting spare parts but with the running one hanging loose it seems more likely that someone was trying to solve a problem and apparently wasn't successful.

I too say start with the basics, many people blame the computer and ignore the basics it takes for any engine to run.  Check for spark.  With an electronic car you don't want to just yank off a wire and see if it jumps somewhere.  You want to us a real spark tester or at least a spark plug and make sure its well grounded and stays grounded. An inductive timing light is also a reasonable way to check. If you got spark then we move to fuel.  If no spark we can start looking deeper into that side of things.

If you have spark then look and see if you can see fuel squiring out the injectors.  The injectors are in those 2 pods hanging above the throttle plates.  If no try dumping a little in or some starting fluid and see if it fires a bit.  If it does then we can go down the no fuel path.  If there is something squirting out but no fire try and catch some and see if it is actually decent gas. You may be trying to invent a car that runs on water.     

#5

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1970 flooding issue?

Last post by klinebau - Today at 12:40:20 PM

Leaky well plugs affected only the very first Quadrajets.  The plug and swaging process was changed and this problem was fixed by 1969 (or earlier).  While it is technically possible to have leaky plugs in later models, it is not likely.

#6

Technical / Authenticity / Re: air conditioning .. are th...

Last post by J. Gomez - Today at 12:37:50 PM

Rick,

I don't want to use up your last bit of insulation, if I can get some from this AliExpress. I'll check them out.
 

By the time these will get use on my side it will be around year 2300 so if you want to wait by them they will double in price. 

I'm guessing that you got the blower switches from Evans Products, looking at the bag laying next to it there.
   I'd have to go out and look through my boxes of stuff to know how many switches I actually have now, I can't remember, it's been too long since I last worked on this stuff.
  If I recall correctly, I think the rheostat wire may be replaceable by using some  Plaster of Paris to insulate it and dissipate the heat generated by it.
  I've done this for a headlight switch, using the wire from a newer switch as the replacement. Of course the amperage going through it wasn't nearly as high as the blower switches, but the principle is the same. (Right) lol!

  Thank you for all your help and knowledge Jose, I really appreciate it.
    Rick

Yes I got the rheostat from an eBay seller way back just in case the ones on my spares and working unit would require replacement, lucky they were all fine, now they are just in the storage bin.

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1970 flooding issue?

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 12:37:35 PM

I wonder if he has had a chance to look closer at this issue yet?

#8

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1964 steering Sector ratio

Last post by klinebau - Today at 12:34:27 PM

It's the sector gear inside the steering box.  This is the part that actually moves the pitman arm. 

GM used a variety of ratios in the Saginaw steering gear and different vehicles had different ratios.  Moving to another ratio will allow less steering input at the expense of more effort to move the steering wheel.  This will make it handle a bit more like a modern vehicle.  Whether this is good is a matter of personal preference.

#9

General Discussion / Re: Has anyone converted their...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 12:33:14 PM

Electric fuel pump and a return line. For older engines from the late 40's and 50s 2 barrels, drilling out the jets is the way to go.

EFI is not developed enough, and for really old engines its junk. Unless you really want to fiddle with it all the time.

You don't consider running wires, lines, and drilling out jets as fiddling? And I and I'm sure others would like to hear more about your statement about it being junk and having to fiddle with it all the time.  That hasn't at all been my experience.  I would really like to hear more about yours.        

#10

General Discussion / Re: Way too long overdue upgra...

Last post by J. Gomez - Today at 12:24:43 PM

Let me ask you, did you need to run a new, larger power wire to each one, or was your original wire able to supply enough amperage?
And, were slow motors/windows ever a problem for you, or were you just concerned with protecting the switches?
  The relays I've been using for everything are SPDT rated at 50A NC and 40A NO, using the same  circuit design as yours, 30, 85, 86, 87, and 87a. The only issue I have with these is where they're made, china, but I've not been able to find any made here. I'm not wild about using them on my Cadillac.
 

Rick,

Since I did all of the hardness re-wire on my car I've also upgraded to a larger gauge wire for all of the long run power sources, so the main +12V "red" wire for the windows hardness is 12 gauge up to the switches versus the old 14 gauge.

Since I recondition all of the motors and the windows channels were also redone these were not an issue, the switches were finicky even after recondition them as well. Sometime they worked fine other times I had to apply a bit of pressure as the motor were a bit slow, but jumping the connector(s) the motor and windows were fine.

Well I'm impartial on were these are manufacture as long as they are functional, I tend to go a bit higher in the rating just to be in the safe side, just in case a 30A on their side is actually 20A on our side.
Even if a product is advertised as "Made in the USA" one has to read the fine print to notice package here but made in some other place.