As of October 1st, 2022 the CLC has reduced the annual e-membership dues to $25. Non-CLC members in the forums, time to join and experience all the other benefits? See post in the General Discussion forum for a link to the Join page

Main Menu

Recent posts

General Discussion / Another 700 miles
Last post by Artistic Precision - Today at 01:30:10 AM
Well, I finished off May with another 700+ trip from Southern California up to Santa Maria CA for the West Coast Kustoms Cruisin Nationals on Memorial Day weekend. I go to that show every year. Ive taken the 39 there maybe 6 or 7 times now. This year was the first year I was able to drive it in the cruise Friday night. That was a great time. Tons of great cars.

My friend in San Jose finally got his 34 Cad up and running and he was able to bring it down and cruise it as well. We had a row of Cads at the show. 34 39 57 and 62. And my other friend was able to get his 36 Buick 3 window in the cruise and the show after a fresh chop on the roof. It came out great.

Was a good time with the 2 of them and their cars. I found a few good spots for photos on monday as I headed back down. So with this 700+ mile trip at the end of the month, and the 1400+ mile trip up to Sacramento the beginning of the month, I put around 2200 miles on the car last month. Glad its finally running good and I can enjoy it now.
Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 56 master window switch wi...
Last post by JungleCadd - Today at 01:18:43 AM
Quote from: Lexi on June 03, 2023, 10:34:54 PMHave not been able to locate, but still looking. Thought I had a box filled with electric odds and ends like that. I did find a wiring harness think out of a 1956 SDV but not parting out stuff from it. Will keep looking for the spare parts. Clay/Lexi
thanks!.much appreciated
Want To Buy - Parts / Re: Rochester 7006221
Last post by Nickl - Today at 01:15:33 AM
Quote from: Lexi on Yesterday at 06:45:31 PMHey Nickl, were you referring to the shop manual or the Rochester Carburetor Manual? I know you said "Shop Manual", but want to be sure. Clay/Lexi

Sorry I mean the  Rochester Carburetor Manual.
I have a few pages of the Rochester Manual but missing the page with jet sizes and other informations
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Synthetic refrigerant oil ...
Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 11:42:24 PM
When I was in the thick of it I remember trying to find out what the official lubricant was for a new compressor and was unable to find out.  My parts guy also asked when he was trying to help me out and force them to warranty a compressor.  They even went as far as saying I wasn't using the right oil but could not tell me what the right or even wrong oil was. They finally gave in and warrantied the compressor but never came up with what oil it was supposed to use.  I think it was when I picked up the warranty replacement was when that counter guy told me to do the ester. 

No disrespect intended, but unless what they are asking is "pocket change" to you, this car has way, way too many if's, ands, but's and whatevers. For one thing, even if I personally had the money to spare, it is vastly overpriced from what I can see. About four times as much as I'd give. There are too many cars out there to buy something that's questionable in so many ways.

I'm sure there are many members owning such a car in this kind of shape, that if you started waving forty grand in front of them, they might consider throwing in their wife and first born as part of the deal. Pardon my sarcasm, but please, for a car that has even minor defects, I think that the car is extremely overpriced.

You mentioned other areas that are in "fair" condition, pitted chrome and some rust spots. In my opinion, a forty grand car of this vintage should be approaching excellent in all respects. Give them your phone # and tell them when they can get down to a four figure price, to give you a call. (And even then, I'd think long and hard about the deal.)

If nothing else, tomorrow, call Hagerty Insurance, tell them everything you've told us, and see if they'd insure the car for that amount given the questionable lineage and condition. I'd also check with your local DMV to see whether your state (if it's different from the seller's) would give you a title. I sold a collector car that I couldn't find the SN, and the buyer's state would not accept the "Mickey Mouse #s" the state trooper said I could put down in my own state when I was titling it."

I am not an "expert" in these matters, just telling you what I'd do if I had the means to buy the car myself. Again, kindest regards, and best of luck.
Let's get back to basics. When rotating machinery such as AC compressors are designed the lubricant for their parts is selected based upon it fluid (viscosity, dynamic shear, temperature tolerances, chemical compatibility with the materials involved in the machinery, etc.). The bearings selected for the machinery are selected based upon their compatibility with the lubricant selected and then the clearances and flow quantities are determined and incorporated into the machines design.Changing Lubricants AND the refrigerant used in a compressor from those it was designed for and all bets are off.
As far as oil compatibilities (with each other) you need to go directly to the manufacturer's information or their engineering facilities.
Anecdotal information (I tried "this" and it worked) is typically a shot in the dark.
Greg Surfas
Technical / Authenticity / 1950 Speedo Cable Problem
Last post by fmackan - Yesterday at 11:00:08 PM
Hi everyone. 1950 Series 62 Sedan. My Speedo cable is failing. O-30 mph is fine. Over that it starts jumping and making grinding noises.

I went to try and unhook it from the cluster today to try and grease it but i found it practically inaccessible.  Can't get my hand or a wrench on it. Any advice?  I also have a new pre-greased cable as well

Second question. So knowing I am seeing my mechanic next week I was going to unhook it at the transmission as it's a 2 hour drive and I don't want unnecessary damage. Will the tranny leak via that cable connection while driving?

Thanks in advance

Francis Mackan
For Sale - Cars / Re: The mother of all barn fin...
Last post by billyoung - Yesterday at 10:50:24 PM
After looking at all 3 cars they are in a pretty sad state and missing significant parts. The 55 Eldo has the wrong sun visors is missing the dual 4 bbl. carbs and intake manifold and batwing air cleaner setup. The 66 looks to be missing both door panels ( both Eldorado only ) wrong hood and possibly trunk lid wrong missing the Eldorado letters. missing fender skirts with Eldo trim. The 1968 looks pushed in in thr front and looks to have significant rust issues. All 3 have had wiring issues also.
Technical / Authenticity / 1970 deville starter problem
Last post by L Rossi - Yesterday at 10:39:33 PM
Hey there,

If this is too long, my car keeps killing starters probably because im using the wrong starter or installing it wrong (or both). Please help.

I have a 70 sedan deville that has the worst starter problem I have ever encountered. I've owned the car for about a year now and in that time i've driven it approximately 400 miles and have replaced the starter 4 times. The starter it had on it when I bought it was an oriely's reman starter that I think is just a GM "one-size fits all deal" which is probably why it didn't last. It wound up breaking while the car was at an alignment shop and the alignment guys tried to replace it but couldn't and ultimately made me pick up the car with a tow truck because they couldn't get it working. Eventually I got another oriely's starter and it worked fine for a while... until it started grinding against the flywheel. At this point I called the previous owner and asked him if he'd had similar issues. He said he hadn't but that when he had installed the starter there had been a bracket on the rear to help hold it in place that was now missing. I ordered this bracket and installed it and again the starter worked fine for a while.. then it began grinding again. At this point I wound up replacing the starter as the housing had cracked and it was no longer useable. I installed a new made (not reman) american made powermaster starter that is supposed to be made for cadillac (but it looks identical to the oriely's ones) with the bracket and lots of locktite and no shims. It worked perfectly for about 6 months. Now it has begun binding in the flywheel and won't start the car (obviously). I have spent both of the last two days under the car trying two different starters with varying amounts of shims and have had two results: either the starter is too far away from the flywheel and it starter chipping the teeth or it's too close the flywheel binds the bendix. Im sure I'm doing something wrong but I have very little expirence beyond this car and I don't know what else to do. If anyone has any tips that could help me get this right I'd love to hear them. This car runs pretty dang good all thjngs considered and it's a shame to just let it sit in my may also be important to note that this car has recently had a timing chain and waterpump replacement but ran and drove fine afterward and started up several times.
For Sale - Cars / 1970 Coupe DeVille Mostly Orig...
Last post by 70DeVille - Yesterday at 10:39:22 PM
1970 Dark Walnut, 85% original paint, no rust, everything working.