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Founded 1958
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#21
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Body On Frame W/ Engine Ca...
Last post by harvey b - Today at 11:31:10 AM200 pounds? put it together and it will weigh a lot more then you think,radiator and water in it,all the little brackets and stuff,you will be suprised how much it will drop.If it has sidemounts thats at least 125 pounds more easy.That is good advice to wait and see,it may be too low with the old springs in it. harveyb
#22
Technical / Authenticity / Rough engine running, 61 CDV
Last post by jwwseville60 - Today at 11:11:58 AMI want to share with everyone my small experience.
People buy Caddies and wonder why the engine runs rough. Well...
I bought my 61 CDV in great shape, but the person who owned it for years
had no old car experience and didnt know a camshaft from a mine shaft. They left the gas in the tank for 3 years while it mostly sat on its old and flat spotted tires. They treated it as you would an unloved modern car.
We drained the tank and added fresh 92 octane gas with Marvels. Then we added drop by drop some Marvels down the rebuilt carb while running. After a few hours it ran fine. The valves had stuck. Now the car runs smooth as silk on new WWW shoes.
Just a cautionary tale for new old Caddy owners.
Drive safe but drive fast!
People buy Caddies and wonder why the engine runs rough. Well...
I bought my 61 CDV in great shape, but the person who owned it for years
had no old car experience and didnt know a camshaft from a mine shaft. They left the gas in the tank for 3 years while it mostly sat on its old and flat spotted tires. They treated it as you would an unloved modern car.
We drained the tank and added fresh 92 octane gas with Marvels. Then we added drop by drop some Marvels down the rebuilt carb while running. After a few hours it ran fine. The valves had stuck. Now the car runs smooth as silk on new WWW shoes.
Just a cautionary tale for new old Caddy owners.
Drive safe but drive fast!
#23
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 CDV pulls left on bra...
Last post by gkhashem - Today at 10:34:53 AMSo if it is the brake drum, do you get lightly used ones or are there any new ones out there.
I would imagine any used ones will need to be machined and they might a hot spot too.
I would imagine any used ones will need to be machined and they might a hot spot too.
#24
General Discussion / Re: First cruise in with 1960
Last post by gkhashem - Today at 10:30:11 AMQuote from: Barry M Wheeler #2189 on Yesterday at 10:34:00 PMGeorge, you always seem to find a '59 or '60 that I could actually love myself. Great looking car!!!
Barry its all in the color. That green looked great as well as the black. Color matters for that curb appeal.
Most likely have seen this car before, it was in Boston at the 1989 Grand National. I would say it probably looks the same as it did then or real close.
#25
Restoration Corner / Re: The Huntsman - 1949 Conver...
Last post by CadillacGlasses - Today at 10:25:39 AMQuote from: Caddy Wizard on August 24, 2023, 03:59:10 PMNot meant as a criticism of your car, but in the picture of the car on the trailer, it appears that the front of the front fender is too low and the front fender is pointing slightly down. Probably needs more shims under the radiator core support at the frame.
Hey Art, it could be, I will try getting a good side view posted soon and see what you think. I remember the body guy was having a tough time getting the hood to fit, and it could definitely be off.
#26
General Discussion / The weight of things
Last post by 64\/54Cadillacking - Today at 10:06:12 AMDo any you judge the build quality of something based on the weight of it?
For instance, I've always judged a cars curb weight on how well constructed it is.
But it also depends on where that weight is distributed and from what. You can have a very heavy vehicle, but a terrible quality interior that squeaks and rattles.
But overall, I see a classic 5,000lb Cadillac using higher quality materials, is better built and can take harsh road impacts and more of a long term beating because of its heavy weight using heavy duty parts that are built to last, vs say a Cadillac XT5 or a CT6.
This is probably why I have so many vintage tools. I love the heft and build quality of all of them. I use a vintage 1950 Baldor bench grinder and also a massively heavy 74lb 7 inch vintage WWII pre-block military used Craftsman 6.7 amp 1/2 hp bench grinder that both work extremely well and have loads of power. I also believe tool manufacturers back then underrated their specs on some of their tools
because the craftsman bench grinder rates at a 1/2 hp, but feels more like a 1 to 2 hp grinder as it doesn't bog down at all.
Same goes for vintage sanders, and angle grinders. All over built and made to last a lifetime.
Including all vintage appliance's, silverware, houseware goods, even audio equipment such as amps, A/V receivers, speakers, and so on.
A perfect example of an extremely heavy car that had doors weighing, looking and feeling like a bank-vault are the 60's Lincoln Continentals. These cars easily weighed in sedan form around 5100-5500lbs in sedan form depending on the years.
The build quality was excellent on these cars, but I still liked driving and the more comfortable, big car feel, smoother ride of my '64 Cadillac over a '61 Lincoln Continental I used to own many years ago.
Although the Cadillac is a lot bigger than the '61 Lincoln, the Lincoln weighs more and is only 212 inches long. So it was a very small, yet very heavy luxury car for its time. All that weight was focused on the inner body structure with massive reinforcement panels and subframes. The heavy tank like doors were also part of the cars overall rigidity, which acted almost like a frame that had this extra heavy gauge metal plate covering inside the door panel since the entire car was unitized with no frame.
It was a very tightly put together car, but didn't isolate road shock as good as the Cadillac. Anyway, this has been my mindset for many years on how I judge the quality of the things I buy. Something weighing a ton also doesn't necessarily mean it will perform better, or faster, or is more efficient, but rather is a test for durability, reliability, and longevity over many many years.
What are your thoughts?
For instance, I've always judged a cars curb weight on how well constructed it is.
But it also depends on where that weight is distributed and from what. You can have a very heavy vehicle, but a terrible quality interior that squeaks and rattles.
But overall, I see a classic 5,000lb Cadillac using higher quality materials, is better built and can take harsh road impacts and more of a long term beating because of its heavy weight using heavy duty parts that are built to last, vs say a Cadillac XT5 or a CT6.
This is probably why I have so many vintage tools. I love the heft and build quality of all of them. I use a vintage 1950 Baldor bench grinder and also a massively heavy 74lb 7 inch vintage WWII pre-block military used Craftsman 6.7 amp 1/2 hp bench grinder that both work extremely well and have loads of power. I also believe tool manufacturers back then underrated their specs on some of their tools
because the craftsman bench grinder rates at a 1/2 hp, but feels more like a 1 to 2 hp grinder as it doesn't bog down at all.
Same goes for vintage sanders, and angle grinders. All over built and made to last a lifetime.
Including all vintage appliance's, silverware, houseware goods, even audio equipment such as amps, A/V receivers, speakers, and so on.
A perfect example of an extremely heavy car that had doors weighing, looking and feeling like a bank-vault are the 60's Lincoln Continentals. These cars easily weighed in sedan form around 5100-5500lbs in sedan form depending on the years.
The build quality was excellent on these cars, but I still liked driving and the more comfortable, big car feel, smoother ride of my '64 Cadillac over a '61 Lincoln Continental I used to own many years ago.
Although the Cadillac is a lot bigger than the '61 Lincoln, the Lincoln weighs more and is only 212 inches long. So it was a very small, yet very heavy luxury car for its time. All that weight was focused on the inner body structure with massive reinforcement panels and subframes. The heavy tank like doors were also part of the cars overall rigidity, which acted almost like a frame that had this extra heavy gauge metal plate covering inside the door panel since the entire car was unitized with no frame.
It was a very tightly put together car, but didn't isolate road shock as good as the Cadillac. Anyway, this has been my mindset for many years on how I judge the quality of the things I buy. Something weighing a ton also doesn't necessarily mean it will perform better, or faster, or is more efficient, but rather is a test for durability, reliability, and longevity over many many years.
What are your thoughts?
#27
General Discussion / Re: 1964 Cadillac Coupe de Vil...
Last post by jwwseville60 - Today at 09:22:12 AMIll add my five cents and say go with Pertronix and maybe an Edelbrock carb.
If you have trouble, parts for the Eddy are numerous.
An electric fuel pump will help with vapor lock.
These EFI "one size fits all" kits are troublesome for some mechanics. The two older gents I use to service my cars hate the EFI.
When it quits on you the car is dead. A carb will get you home.
You can also keep a spare Pertronix kit in your trunk bag.
As was said above, it takes a VERY good mechanic to tune an EFI correctly.
You should not let an old Caddy sit for long. The fuel goes bad and it wont run well.
Its not a modern car.
If you have trouble, parts for the Eddy are numerous.
An electric fuel pump will help with vapor lock.
These EFI "one size fits all" kits are troublesome for some mechanics. The two older gents I use to service my cars hate the EFI.
When it quits on you the car is dead. A carb will get you home.
You can also keep a spare Pertronix kit in your trunk bag.
As was said above, it takes a VERY good mechanic to tune an EFI correctly.
You should not let an old Caddy sit for long. The fuel goes bad and it wont run well.
Its not a modern car.
#28
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 CDV pulls left on bra...
Last post by Chopper1942 - Today at 08:56:03 AMThe points Dayrl and LEXI stated are very relevant. Pull off the front and rear drums and check for hot spots and cracks on braking surface of the drums, oil/fluid on the lining, excessive brake dust in the drums, and brake adjusters.
If everything is OK, Adjust the brakes and them have a helper lightly apply the brakes and see if each wheel is dragging about the same.
Another thing to check is the suspension bushings and ball joints on the left side. If they have play, this will cause the wheel to move back on braking and cause a pull to the left.
Also, if there are hot spots or cracks in the brake drums, I would replace them. A brake lathe will not remove the hot spots. The hot spots are very hard and it is necessary to grind out the hot spots with a die grinder and stone and then machine the brake drum. the problem is the hot spot will return. You will never have satisfactory brakes.
If everything is OK, Adjust the brakes and them have a helper lightly apply the brakes and see if each wheel is dragging about the same.
Another thing to check is the suspension bushings and ball joints on the left side. If they have play, this will cause the wheel to move back on braking and cause a pull to the left.
Also, if there are hot spots or cracks in the brake drums, I would replace them. A brake lathe will not remove the hot spots. The hot spots are very hard and it is necessary to grind out the hot spots with a die grinder and stone and then machine the brake drum. the problem is the hot spot will return. You will never have satisfactory brakes.
#29
For Sale - Cars / Re: Possible scam tactic
Last post by Highwayman68 - Today at 08:53:25 AMWell there you go, a new participant on the forums first post is supposed to be gospel. Ah yeah, nothing fishy about this one.
#30
General Discussion / Re: 1960 trans problem
Last post by Roger Zimmermann - Today at 08:53:11 AMQuote from: 60eldo on Today at 08:12:17 AMRoger , if thats the problem, can it be fixed without removing trans? Maybe by just removing the pan?Yes, by just removing the pan, it's possible to see if the manual valve is correctly engaged. The attached picture is giving an idea what to look for, even if 1960 transmission is slightly different. However, with all the oil which is "raining", it's not very convenient.