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Brand New 1941 Series 63 Owner With Questions

Started by Spyke, March 08, 2023, 08:39:25 PM

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Spyke

Hello Gentlemen,

My name is Ben and I am the new owner of a 41 Series 63. I just got the car and am in the process of going through it and had some rookie questions I was hoping you guys might be able to help me with. I have almost no info on the history of the car.

1. Even when I set the front seat all the way back, its really tight for me to get into the car. Any tricks to get the seat back farther?

2. When the car was dopped off, it wouldn't start. Completely dead. No dome light or headlights come on. So I charged the battery with my 6v charger. Today when I put the meter on the battery, I was surprised to see it was reading 12V. Now I'm wondering if it was converted at some point? How would I confirm weather or not it was converted or if some Bozo just dropped in a 12v battery?

3. It looks like someone had the heads off at some point. Any easy way to confirm if it was converted to burn unleaded without taking them off?

Thanks in advance if you are able to help. I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with this thing as the oldest car I've owned and worked on is a 68 Mustang that feels downright modern compared to this beast.

J. Russo

Welcome Ben,

I also have a 1941 Series 63

1. Take the front seat out and check that there are no obstructions under or behind the seat or in the tracks on both sides. I also sprayed the track with liquid wrench to loosen things up. Try not to force anything.

2. If the battery has 6 caps for adding water it's 12 volts. 3 caps is 6 volts. If the car has a 12 volt battery, it must have a 12 volt generator and voltage regulator. When I bought my Cadillac, someone had converted it to 12 volts. I converted it back to 6.
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

z3skybolt

The seats in these old cars do not slide back nearly as far as in modern cars.  Folks were a couple inches shorter and not nearly as overweight 80 years ago.  Just a fact.

I am 5' 7" and 175 lbs.  My stomach sits about 3 inches from the steering wheel on my 1940 LaSalle with the seat as far rearward as it will go.

That being said.....perhaps there is something wrong with the seat in your Cadillac.

Good luck,

Bob R.
1940 LaSalle 5227 Coupe(purchased May 2016)
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series. Bought New.

Chopper1942

Even with the heads off it would be difficult to tell if the exhaust valve seats were replace with hardened seats and the valves have hard faces.  Best bet is to get some Red Line Lead Substitute 60202.  It's available on Amazon, Jeg's, Summit, etc.

I would also add a zinc/phosphorus oil additive at every oil change to prevent camshaft and/or tappet failure.  All the oils today are made to not damage catalytic converters.  They do not provide the camshaft protection as oil formulated for flat tappet camshafts.  Use a good high quality oil and add the zinc additive for proper lubrication of your "old" engine.

A bottle of additive to treat 5 qts of oil is $15-$25.  Lucas make a Hot Rod and Classic 10-30 oil with the additive in it and it sells for $40-$45 for a five qt jug.  Either way it's pricey, but a "heck" of a lot cheaper than replacing a camshaft and lifters in your engine.  It also helps lube and protect all the metals in the engine.

Hope this helps and gives you some direction on maintaining your "new" companion and source of much enjoyment.

LaSalle5019

I suggest saving your money. Your car will run on unleaded fine and there is plenty of zinc in today's oil for your application. There was no ZDDP in oils until well after the war and it was only needed as higher compression, higher cylinder temps and higher valve spring pressures came about for high performance engines. This is the same reason you won't have any issues with unleaded fuel. The low compression flathead in your 1941 has very low valve seat pressures and flat tappet loads compared to a more modern performance engines and has no need for hardened valve seats or special additives.

Besides my 30 years as an engineer at GM, my work on aircraft and auto engines, my own experience with my pre-war cars, my experience as Executive Director/Curator of an automotive museum, I've done a lot of research on these subjects. Not only have I read the SAE papers written on the subjects I talked with the writers of those papers since many worked for GM when I was there.

I mean no disrespect to others and their opinions but it amazes me how much of the anecdotal information that floats around on these forums can be traced back to the various companies trying to sell you something.
Scott

James Landi

Two diagnostic tools will provide you with a good deal of information about the present health of your engine.  An automotive vacuum gauge, and an infrared thermometer.  If you 're inclined to do some research on using these tools, you can gleen a good deal of salient information without having to get your hands (too) dirty and/or busting you knuckles.  Most important, have fun with your new car!   James

wheikkila

As for your battery. Start at the battery. Is it 12 volt or 6 volt? Your car should be a positive ground. Does the negative run to the starter? Next check the voltage regulator, it should say 6 or 12 volt. Check your headlight 6 or 12. Some ware after these checks you should know what you have.
                 Thanks Wayne 

fishnjim

Agree with Scott's position, et al.   These era cars are low compression there's no "problem" with ethanol gas and octane.  There might be some issues with the materials in and condition of the fuel system, if they have not been changed / compatibilized. 
Ignition system has to work well.  Lower spark energy era but too low and won't run.  Compression directly affects combustability.  Higher = more spark energy needed.  Especially if electrical's been modified.

Lesson:
I would suggest to others that one research their potential vehicle before purchasing.  {I know the psychology of intuitive v analytical.}    Much more difficult if a distance purchase or brokered.  Have a mechanic or appraiser check if not savvy/able.
Less post purchase questions that way and prevents from making serious errors. 
Enjoy the ride.

LaSalle5019

Adding to what Jim said above...
Doing a compression test will also provide some valuable insight. Those spark plug threads are 10mm. I wish I had done a compression test on my LaSalle before purchasing it.

wheikkila

Yes, doing a compression check will give you some information. But it doesn't mean much in a way. My LaSalle had good compression 95 to 100. Right up to the point were number 8 piston broke.
                     Thanks Wayne