Hello Everyone,
I am going to be pulling the engine and trans out of my 1955 series 62 convertible and I want to respray the engine bay when it is out. I wanted to know were these cars painted body color or black engine bays? I have seen fully restored cars done both ways? Just wasn't sure what the general consensus is?
Thanks,
Ryan
Here's a few photos of my project, a '55 CDV.
I suggest getting an Authenticity Guide from CLC, it will be very helpful.
To answer your question, the engine bay is body color in a correct restoration.
Also note the heater hose clips on the firewall vent housing cover are painted black, not body color, see this frequently done incorrectly.
Hope this helps
John Adams
I was told when my 55 Fleetwood was being judged at grand nationals that the heater hose clips where supposed to be silver cadmium he also mentioned the same color for the power brake booster.
Keep Cruzin
Bob Kielar
John's engine bay looks exactly like my 55 and she's a regional show winner (Roger Bentley's former CDV).
Mine was covered with grease and oil when we got it-- Hope that helps :) .
Jeff R
Here's a few photos of the day when "Marilyn" was pulled out of the "barn" in 2011.The car is obviously completely unrestored, and had been in the same family since new.
The underhood area is as GM built it, with a few important elements (the engine!) missing.
In my opinion this is a good reference for what is correct or not.
Two of the photos barely show part of the brake booster and the original (!) heater hose routing over the firewall vent housings. Both the brake booster and the hose clips are black, not plated. I'm pretty sure this is correct.
Marilyn has won several respectable Concourse 1st place finishes and best of shows too!
John Adams
Thanks Everyone! I really appreciate the photos, as it is very hard to find good documentation on the internet for what the original engine bay is supposed to look like. My car is pretty much all original but the previous owner (original owner) did say that it had been resprayed in the factory color (Arlington Green) once, So I wasn't sure if they sprayed the engine bay at that time or not? There is no rust, but everything needs to be redone...
I want to start with the engine / transmission and engine bay as I would like the car to be mechanically perfect then worry about other cosmetic things as I go. From looking at the photos I already have noticed that I am missing the heater hoses completely, and also the factory windshield washer reservoir, so those will need to be sourced and replaced.
I'm sure I will be posting a lot of questions in the future, once the restoration starts.
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Thanks Again,
Ryan
Hello Ryan,
Looks like a great project to restore. Are you planning on restoring the car to original factory specs and have it judged at a Grand National? If so the only place I believe to get the correct Cadillac blue color is from Bill Hirsch. Also if you are going to buy a windshield washer jar and actuator that is on the lid after engine number 97095 they are vacuum operated before this number they are electric. It looks like there is a vacuum line near the container where the washer goes. The switch on the dash will also be different one has vacuum lines going to it the other will have wires. This is a great forum with loads of knowledge so don't be hesitant to ask questions.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar
Thanks for the Great pictures Ryan. I always love to see what appears to be factory correct. Although I strive to keep everything on my car as close to original as possible I never had the option on starting from square one like you are doing with your 55. Enjoy the restoration and keep sending those great pictures. Bill
Ryan:
I spent 7 years doing a body off full nut and bolt restoration on my car, so you're going a have a hobby for the foreseeable future!
I noticed a metal plate under the fuel filter in your photos. Would appreciate any info on that from others. Looks to me like a backyard mechanic's heat shield as a solution for preventing vapor lock.
Am I correct?
John Adams
I think you are correct aftermarket fuel filter and homemade heat shield. I wonder if it helped with vapor lock.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar
Quote from: Bob Kielar on February 04, 2023, 01:57:49 PMHello Ryan,
Looks like a great project to restore. Are you planning on restoring the car to original factory specs and have it judged at a Grand National? If so the only place I believe to get the correct Cadillac blue color is from Bill Hirsch. Also if you are going to buy a windshield washer jar and actuator that is on the lid after engine number 97095 they are vacuum operated before this number they are electric. It looks like there is a vacuum line near the container where the washer goes. The switch on the dash will also be different one has vacuum lines going to it the other will have wires. This is a great forum with loads of knowledge so don't be hesitant to ask questions.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar
Thanks Bob, I do plan to restore the car to factory spec. I purchased it from the second owner's brother. He passed away over 15 years ago and the car has been in storage for the last 15 years or so, only being driven on rare occasion and started every so often but not really driven that much. The paint is original Arlington green and the interior is green leather. The car doesn't have any rust but is showing its age in the engine and convertible top. I figure it would be best to start with the engine/transmission mechanical work and possibly paint the engine bay when the mechanical work is being done. I would be interested in painting the engine valve covers and associated engine parts in the original cadillac blue, so any info on where to obtain this paint code or paint would be appreciated. As for the windshield fluid reservoir, I am pretty sure it is vacuum operated unit but I'll have to double check.
Quote from: Bill Kaufman CLC# 15225 on February 04, 2023, 02:39:36 PMThanks for the Great pictures Ryan. I always love to see what appears to be factory correct. Although I strive to keep everything on my car as close to original as possible I never had the option on starting from square one like you are doing with your 55. Enjoy the restoration and keep sending those great pictures. Bill
Thanks Bill,
It is going to be a long process but I will be focusing on the engine transmission work for the near future. This way I can enjoy the car when the nicer weather gets here. I figure the replacement of the convertible top can be done next fall whne the car is going to be in storage anyways. I will be keeping everything on this car factory correct, except for the radio, which will have the factory look, but incorporate bluetooth technology.
Quote from: 5390john on February 04, 2023, 03:11:39 PMRyan:
I spent 7 years doing a body off full nut and bolt restoration on my car, so you're going a have a hobby for the foreseeable future!
I noticed a metal plate under the fuel filter in your photos. Would appreciate any info on that from others. Looks to me like a backyard mechanic's heat shield as a solution for preventing vapor lock.
Am I correct?
John Adams
Thanks John, your car is beautiful! I'm sure you're right about this being a long process until it is completed, but it is something I am going to enjoy! The metal plate was installed by the previous owner. I'm not really sure what it does but I will be converting everything back to factory.
Thanks,
Ryan
Quote from: ryguy886 on February 06, 2023, 06:02:23 PMI would be interested in painting the engine valve covers and associated engine parts in the original cadillac blue, so any info on where to obtain this paint code or paint would be appreciated.
Paint from Bill Hirsch is very highly recommended for this application. I refreshed the top of the engine on my '59 while doing a water pump and it came out beautifully. I used the rattle can version and the paint flowed smoothly and the color match was excellent. I primed the parts, including the valve covers, with self etching primer and then finished with the Bill Hirsch Cadillac Dark Blue.
https://www.hirschauto.com/mobile/AEROSOL-ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EEA-SPRAY/CAD%20DK%20BLU/
Best of luck with your project!
For some reason that link takes you to a Chevrolet color, but click on the down arrow and you will see the Cadillac Blue. Unfortunately, it is listed as out of stock and seems to me like it has been for some time. Might give Hirsch a call and see what the availability will be. It is indeed a very nice paint to work with and flows out beautifully.
I went to order some Cadillac dark blue paint from Bill Hirsch at the beginning of November 2022 and it was out of stock. I contacted them and they said they would have it back in stock in two weeks. I kept checking and it was back in stock by the end of November.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob
FYI. The power brake booster should be steel, copper, or silver cadmium plating according to the authenticity manual page 3-9 section Y paragraph 6.
I was told by judges at Grand Nationals it should be silver cadmium plating.
I was also told I could repaint mine with silver cadmium paint that you can buy from Eastwood. So I did.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar