Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Fuel filters specifically ...

Last post by Steve W - Today at 12:50:18 AM

And this is the one for Chrysler that I was talking about. No problem fitting the lines on this! I just don't know if it would work on Cadillac. (If the internals are the same, if it flows the same, etc,)

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Fuel filters specifically ...

Last post by Steve W - Today at 12:47:06 AM

This is the WIX Filter I bought, but I can't get both rubber fuel lines and clamps on the outlets, They're too close together.

#3

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Fuel filters specifically ...

Last post by Steve W - Today at 12:32:29 AM

Found this on the web. I guess it's the WIX fuel filter for 68 Cadillac. Kida looks like the stock one! Its not made anymore either.

#4

General Discussion / Norwood Automobile Company

Last post by Cape Cod Fleetwood - Yesterday at 11:36:47 PM

Hey folks, I know some of you collect literature, paraphernalia from Caddy dealers long gone. If anyone has anything from the "Norwood Automobile Company" let me know? They were in Norwood, MA. That building is now home to Cadillac of Norwood, my friend Mike Xidea owns it, he has nothing from the old Norwood Automobile Company, that's where The Ark was sold new from in November of 1969. Some may remember they had The Ark's 50th birthday party there. Thanks!

#5

General Discussion / Re: Replaced my battery today

Last post by Cape Cod Fleetwood - Yesterday at 11:31:10 PM

Yes sir! But I also wanted maximum cold cranking amps (CCA) for the size! These 472 engines need cranking power as they age. This one, like my old DieHard is advertised at 810 CCA, and its a VERY tight fit, but it fits with a bit of wiggling-in.

And the "Group 27" is the very correct size as well. The days of batteries lasting that long are long gone, pretty standard to just replace the battery every 3 years around here. NAPA, AutoZone, Advance, they're basically all the same, and you'll be changing it in 3 years anyway, so. 40+ years ago the Sears DieHard was the holy grail, now they're bankrupt.

North Hollywood? Anywhere near the old Beverly Hills Gun Club? Sly Stallone owned a part of it, I shot there when I had bands on the left coast.

#6

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Hydroboost conversions

Last post by 403CADILLAC - Yesterday at 11:21:19 PM

You have to be real careful here and make sure the right pressure and amount of brake fluid is applied ie, match the master and calipers.  It not simple plug and play.   A rear drum wheel cylinder has a different requirement than a disc.  Some had smaller bore than the fronts, some proportioning to adjust.  That's why I like to get something already figured out and have someone else install it, so it doesn't come back on me and my work.   Something to consider, when "saving" a few bucks.  What's you car or life worth?
The size of the rotors will be important, the rear doesn't need as much stopping as the front, the 60/40 rule.  That ratio can be changed with chassis mods, so it all works together or has to.  Depending on how much horsepower you intend to make the factory frame may not hold it either.  Making it vs hooking it to the ground to benefit is another twist.   Back then, there wasn't the HP available today, so people could change things without much consequence, but today double, triple, or more is possible.  Frame changes aren't cheap. 
Probably a mild cam won't need a fancy brake system, if the factory is functioning well/replaced with new.  One can add an electric vacuum pump booster too if the cam eats into the vacuum.  No parasitic loss either.
If you just assume things, you'll end up worse than what is on it.

Good points and no triple power or frame modification in the plans. I can't even bring myself to cut the hood. It might be overkill but I'd like to increase brake pressure for 4 wheel discs. Fit new lines and preportioning valve same time (a future winter). This fall my master seals went and took out the booster so I need to buy replacements this year. I just pulled and tore down engine to rebuild and wake it up some so I've got room for working on firewall now.

#7

General Discussion / Trying to post pictures

Last post by Cadman-iac - Yesterday at 10:58:28 PM

  I'm still trying to figure out how to post some pictures on this new forum format. I followed the suggestions that Peter gave, but nothing happens when I select "add files".
What is the trick here? I'm using an android phone, I don't have a computer, so I've got to figure this out.
It wasn't a problem on the old forum. Any help or suggestions would be really appreciated.

  Rick

 PS. I think the tips that Peter gives are for the old forum. The date it was posted was back in 2019,and I'm fairly certain that the new forum format only started last year.

#8

Technical / Authenticity / Re: '76 Eldorado timing gear r...

Last post by 79 Eldorado - Yesterday at 10:46:26 PM

I've got a completely different engine, 79 with Oldsmobile engine, than you but some of what you was what I did as well (re-use lower seal and welded true 1/4" nuts on the rear of the front cover. I contemplated attaching the water pump to the cover first but I ended-up assembling my cover first. Something at the time made it obvious to me I should do it like that but I don't recall what it was.

Some comments:
-If your paper front cover gasket only seals on 3 sides make certain to seal the lower corners.
-Blue permatex ultra is the recommended sealant around coolant passages.
-Ultra black permatex for areas around oil
-Once I had the front cover in place I used bolts loosely torqued secure it. I then used a smoker through my oil fill tube to check for leaks. You may need to place something in the water pump 1/4" bolt locations as they likely go directly into the front of the engine. I smoked it because there's a ton of work involved repeating if it leaks.

The way my engine mounting brackets, water pump and timing indicator interact may have made me think assembling the front cover made more sense...still cannot recall.

Which dowels are you describing? I had dowels for the front cover and I was able to get the front cover on without doing anything to them. The FSM says to chamfer the ends of the dowels only.

Different engine so not certain I helped but I thought I would try.

Hope the rest goes well,
Scott

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Hydroboost conversions

Last post by 403CADILLAC - Yesterday at 10:31:54 PM

I though I had the only 403 powered Cadillac.  Bruce Roe

You still might be the only one. Its got a 472, guess the names a little misleading

#10

General Discussion / Re: Replaced my battery today

Last post by Alan Harris CLC#1513 - Yesterday at 10:31:04 PM

Would you ever have thought in 2012 that your Sears Diehard battery would last longer than Sears?