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'40 Lasalle project finally home. Ugh!

Started by Poncholover, September 18, 2022, 11:25:49 PM

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Poncholover

  So after 18 months, this Bad boy came home from storage. I had previously poked a prodded a little & knew there was an issue with the engine but we weren't really able to dig in where it was stored.
First stop was the car wash where I took a pressure washer to it as it had to look presentable on the trailer!

Then on to a light tidying and inventorying...

It is really tough to get a socket on the crank snout and I really hoped that hosing down the cylinders last year would free up what ever had prevented the engine from turning a whole 365. Likely a stuck valve or lifter? Well, unfortunately it still would not turn a full rotation. No Happy Garden!

I considered pulling the heads but know what head gaskets cost! It seemed like a better plan to pull the manifolds. Besides it would be then easy to hose down the ports/valves and pull the valley covers if needed. Unfortunately, mice had made it from the exhaust system all the way to the left exhaust ports which apparently was the ideal place to build mouse condos.

I soaked the ports with more rust penetrant and may pull the valley covers later this week.

At this point, I really don't know how far I want to take this hell rocket, I have enough crap to fix, it is tougher than ever to find a competent machine shop & do I really want to build an engine for a car that is a good 250-300 hours from hitting the road? Fortunately I have all winter to think about it. One thing for sure. If I don't save this one, some clown will put an LS in it :(

Stay tuned!
Flattie Caddy

harry s

Looks like a nice one and worthy of the save.     Harry
Harry Scott 4195
1941 6733
1948 6267X
2011 DTS Platinum

Poncholover

Currently have the ports filled up with the old Acetone & ATF trick. Guess we will see what happens!
Flattie Caddy

Poncholover

I gave the fan blades the old Heave Ho the other day & she turns! the lifter valley looks pretty decent inside and the next step may be to pull the heads and do some clean up at the very least.
Does anyone have partial gasket sets around? For now, manifold gaskets will likely be enough.
let me know!
Flattie Caddy

Jeff Hansen

Best Gaskets sells manifold sets.  You can find them on eBay and Egge sells them.  I'm sure other vendors do, too.

https://bestgasket.com/vintage-engine-gaskets/

BestGasketCadillacList.jpg
Jeff Hansen
1941 6019S Sixty Special
1942 7533 Imperial Sedan

Poncholover

Went to visit this ol' Gal today.

Put the carb back on, routed the plug wires and the starter was willing!
Cranked until we had oil pressure.
We had no spark & a quick clean up on the points fixed that.
Until we tried to start it. Seems that the ignition switch is flaky & we did not have reliable voltage to the coil. The switch looked pretty rough inside so after a quick clean up we tried again with no joy.

     I will post up an ad in the classified for a switch but I am wondering if the shielded wire leading to the coil is removable or do I need to replace the whole deal as an assembly?

And we were so close!
Flattie Caddy

Jeff Hansen

The whole thing is an assembly.

It is quite possible that the wire inside the armored cable has deteriorated and could be shorting out.

Contact CLC member Marty Watkins in Bensalem (northeast Philadelphia), PA.  Marty may be able to rebuild your switch for you.  For many years, he has been refurbishing these assemblies.  If yours is rebuildable, he can disassemble the switch, replace the wire in the armored cable, and reassemble.  You'll need to send the assembly to him for diagnosis, but that's easier than finding a new switch.

HTH,
Jeff
Jeff Hansen
1941 6019S Sixty Special
1942 7533 Imperial Sedan

James Landi

YOu've made terrific prgress.  SOme suggestions to immediately assess your engine,  respectfully submitted, as follows: With the starter cranking and all of the spark plugs out, check the compression in each cylinder.  With a cold engine that was partially stuck, you'll likely get about 60 psi on each. If you have cylinders that deliver NO psi, either one of the valves is stuck open or the car was put away needing a valve job... in either case, a couple of dead cylinders makes for a non-start.  If you have some compression in all cylinders, then  Hot wire the coil -- ensure that you have a strong spark being delivered through the spark plug wires--(makes no sense to COOK your starter if you don't have spark  to the plugs). Hook up some kind of SAFE, CLEAN fuel delivery to the carburetor... using an outboard fuel tank with a hand pump bulb attached to the carburetor inlet. HAVE a fire extinguisher on hand. Once that's connected, can you see fuel being pumped into the intake manifold by activating the traffic pump.  If the carburetor is not filling with gasoline, the internal float is stuck, and no matter how many times you crank the starter, the car will never start--- you'll need to clean thoroughly, and rebuild the carburetor to ensure that all the internal ports are clean, that the float and float valve work, and that the traffic pump works.  You may be fortunate, but again, it makes no sense to crank the starter if you don't have adequate fuel, spark, and compression.  I hope this helps,  James

Poncholover

Hi James, We have both been to this same rodeo a time or two!
And if it misses, I have a spare engine or two, just want to make it yard drive for now.
And to address other posts, it is the switch that was flaky, not the wire to the coil, confirmed this after much jiggling and disassembly.
It looks like the 3rd time was the charm as after cleaning & polishing the contacts, everything Ohms out well.
It may be a while before the next try? :(

Photo is after polishing & before the Lubri-plate (what GM used)
Flattie Caddy