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General Discussion / Re: 1959 rear pinion seal replacement
« Last post by Roger Zimmermann on Today at 03:22:18 AM »
Well, to fix it, the axle has to be pulled, and if the shield between the inner and outer rings of the bearing is good, then it could just be the "O" Ring.

The chance that only the "O" ring is leaking is very small. Usually, the whole bearing must be replaced. Fortunately, there is only one size for all 1957 to 1965 cars, exc. CC models.
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General Discussion / Re: 1959 rear pinion seal replacement
« Last post by cadman59 on Today at 02:39:43 AM »
At this very moment me and my son are rebuilding the complete rear end of my 1959, what also started because of leaking axle seals. The Pinion seal also already leaked (sweat-ed) for years.

This is what a leaking axle seal will look like:


This is what a leaking pinion seal will look like:


The seals of both Pinion and rear axles were really worn.

As Bruce says, the axle seals are part of the axle bearings so you would have to replace them as a unit.

New rear axle bearings in place:


New pinion bearing in place:


Since all the bushings, spherical joint, springs and shock absorbers were also in a bad shape, and everything was rather rusty, we decided to to it all now that we are at it.












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General Discussion / Re: 1959 rear pinion seal replacement
« Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) on Today at 02:04:01 AM »
Well, to fix it, the axle has to be pulled, and if the shield between the inner and outer rings of the bearing is good, then it could just be the "O" Ring.

It could be a simple fix by going to Repco and getting the correct size "O" Ring and fitting it.

These axles don't have a normal Axle Seal, like say the Ford 9", but the "O" Ring stops the oil from slipping out between the outer bearing ring and the housing, and the seal between the bearing rings.   I have always replaced the whole unit, as the bearings were suspect.

This from Rock Auto shows the seal and "O" Ring  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1838144&cc=1320523&pt=1860&jsn=476
And this from Rock Auto shows the bearing, with the seal fitted.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11699757&cc=1320523&pt=1672&jsn=483   

Bruce. >:D
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General Discussion / Re: 1959 rear pinion seal replacement
« Last post by 65mod on Today at 01:36:25 AM »
Thanks for clarification. I’m not a mechanic but the mechanic that looked at it for my roadworthy said axle pinion seal but it is definitely the one at the wheel end and leaking onto the brake. Going to pull the wheel and have a look. Sorry for the confusion. I am happy to learn as I go. Thanks for your help
5
There should be no pressure on the Master Cylinder when attaching it to the Brake Booster.   If there is, then you are pushing the Brake Piston inwards, and therefore not allowing it to return to the rest position to accept fresh fluid from the reservoir which it needs to do to maintain the correct capacity in the lines.

Plus, it will be maintaining pressure on the brakes themselves.

Bruce. >:D
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General Discussion / Re: 1959 rear pinion seal replacement
« Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) on Today at 12:51:49 AM »
I have been looking through an online manual but it doesn’t mention sizes. The seal I need is near the wheel and it is leaking onto the brake on the passenger side only.
I will try and see if I can get the rear wheel off and see if I can get a measurement. Just my luck that I can’t get a simple solution lol. Lots of places seem to have the smaller one in stock but the bigger one is hard to find.
Alistair,

I think we are looking at the wrong seal.

The Pinion Seal is in the front of the Diff Pumpkin, and directly behind the tailshaft.

The Axle seal is a totally different kettle of fish.

This one is an "O" Ring that is around the rear axle race, and the re is a cover on the side of the race to keep the diff oil inside the housing.

If the "O" Ring is leaking, then that can be replaced, but if the oil is coming out through the bearing, then  you will need a new bearing.   These are not cheap.

Plus, you will need the Shop Manual for the correct measurements for the race to be positioned on the axle.   Or, we can give you the measurements, but having the Shop Manual is far better, as you will need it.

Bruce. >:D

PS.   Having the correct terminology is good, and required.
7
Technical / Authenticity / Need Help with 1959 Horn Wire
« Last post by Ivan Yurtin on Today at 12:11:07 AM »
My horn wire was missing from the steering column (previous owner just wired a button under dash). I purchased the correct wire for the horn as shown in the attachment. I believe the end with the connector goes to the horn contact button in the steering wheel. However I don't know where the other bare end of the wire connects. I don't see a connection location on the Neutral Safety Switch. If the wire is supposed to connect to the Nuetral Safety Switch and it routs down the center of the steering column, I don't see an exit point on the steering column for the wire. Possibly it connects somewhere in the steering column???? Please provide some guidance.

Thanks,

Ivan Yurtin
8
General Discussion / Re: 1959 rear pinion seal replacement
« Last post by Daryl Chesterman on Yesterday at 11:52:37 PM »
Alistair, below is a copy of the page in the parts manual for the pinion seal.  While looking at the parts manual, I could not see the 1468755 carrier number that you referenced.  I think, like Bruce said, it is best to clean things up in that area and see if you can determine a measurement.  Failing that, you will need to drop the propeller shaft and remove the yoke, being sure to follow the directions in the shop technical manual exactly.

Good Luck!
Daryl Chesterman
9
For Sale - Parts / Re: 1969, 1970 LH mirror all except Eldo.
« Last post by Cape Cod Fleetwood on Yesterday at 11:50:01 PM »
Put in on the 65-70 collective on facebook, it will be gone in an hour.
10
Restoration Corner / Re: The ARK arrives at the body shop
« Last post by Cape Cod Fleetwood on Yesterday at 11:45:23 PM »
Laurie,

What you have to do is look at all your old photos, and then compare those with what your car looks like now.

Many times, people complain about something when a car comes back from a body shop that something is wrong, and doesn't fit, but believe me, many cars weren't perfect prior to being pulled down for repairs. etc.

The quality of these vehicles and body fitment and gaps were pretty ordinary when they left the factory.   Nobody complained then, because they were glad to get their purchase, and all the Service Manager would say is "Within tolerances".   If the same tolerances were in use now, everyone would complain.   Computers and Robots are programmed to make things perfect, every time.

Bruce. >:D

Bruce, Mike also indicted me for my imagined photographic memory. Things to remember, 1)I'm a chick, 2)I was responsible for nukes in the military, 3) I've polished every inch of that car's nose with my hands guided by my eyes WELL over 6 dozen times. I have TONS of pictures, they're not necessary. When my index finger doesn't fit between the grill and headlight trim, where I'd polish like mad - there's something wrong. A closer look showed a lot more wrong. Jeez the 'point' of the bumper, the point of the grill and the point of the hood, always in a straight line, now it looks like a lightning bolt. AS I SAID PREVIOUSLY its a shame, they did so much right, beyond all expectations, great attention to detail. Only to f it all away on the front trim. Are you kidding? Too soon to mention the back left door is inop today, can't open the door from the outside or inside. Left back up light is out when I was told the day before transport all lights were working. Sure, the bulb could have died. It will all get straightend out locally, I just hope quickly, its making my OCD crazy. And seriously, just no excuse for it. I've done enough elaborate crown molding to know instantly when something doesn't match up perfectly. The failure of the back door already is inexcusable. TEST this $hit before you sign a car off.

The Ark had his first cruise after 6 months as a paperweight tonight. Standard pre-flight, start at the radiator and work around clock wise. Surprised to see both battery cables just dropped over the terminals, not tightened at all, just flopped onto the terminals. Fortunately my fairy God Father sent me an array of car tools, and if Michael ever finds them he'll throw them out since I'm not allowed to own tools. Tighten both down well. Wires, cap, fluids, odd to see the front brake resevoir, (disc brakes) with the rubber thingy fully deployed from the top, that's never happened before. Plenty of fluid, reset the rubber thingy, I had full brakes tonight, I'll let Michael take a closer look Saturday. No other oddities under the hood other than a filthy engine bay, they'll clean at ATD this week. Then a WONDERFUL 50 mile, nice and easy, cruise to Eastham for a slice of pizza, by the Cape Cod National Seashore, etc, just gorgeous, low 70's light traffic and we kept it to 50-55 ergo that 472 had no idea it was on, 'easy' for the first trip in 6 months. And what a blast, so blessed. Now to get that front end fixed and left rear door, I shouldn't have to have to do this, seriously. A Cadillac guy who works on/owns mostly Cadillacs should know how to put a Cadillac back together. When in doubt, Google. Jeez.
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