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Is it still a Barn Find if I was the one who put it there? 1937 LaSalle Project

Started by Detritus, October 22, 2021, 09:05:30 PM

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Detritus

Hi, I'm Jack from Vermont.

So I figured I'd start a little thread thread here about my project.

I bought this car when I was about 30 years old.  It was running and yard driving when I got it, although, the engine block had been welded.  It looked like somebody left it full of water, and blew out the water jackets out on the ground when it froze.  Then, they picked up the pieces, and glued them back on with some nickel rod.  Really ugly.  I don't remember it leaking though.  I think it would have been a good buy, if it weren't a four door, weren't the most common year LaSalle ever made, and the block wasn't trashed.  But, at the time, I didn't know any better.

The first thing I did was sand all of the paint off, and take it completely apart, break a few things, and stuff all of the pieces in a barn.

The next thing I did, was wait to do anything else until now.  I turn 43 next month.

I think what got me going again on the project, is I went to look at another car project about a month ago.  That car made mine look like all it needed was a little air in the tires.  Basically a huge hacked up pile of rotting disassembled metal that used to be a 67 Mustang at some point.  Most of it should probably be scrapped.  After looking at that, I thought maybe I should start digging around in my own pile of metal that used to be a car, and maybe revisit that project instead.

As far as going in the right direction with the LaSalle, all I did back then was blast and paint the frame, as well as the rear axle and springs.  Thats about it.

Well, the last few weeks, I have put the rear axle back onto the frame, reassembled the rear brakes after blasting and painting the parts, blasted and painted the rear wheels, and tubed the two good tires I had, and mounted them on my rims.  Stuck those on the car, and moved to the front.  Blasted and painted the shocks, springs, control arms, sway bar, tie rods, etc, and got all of that assembled and back on the frame, with a couple of junk roller wheels bolted on, after cleaning and redoing the front wheel bearings and brakes and stuff.  Also did the steering box and column, and hooked that up too.

The car is a rolling chassis now again for the first time in about 12 years.

The next thing I did was drag the pallet with the engine and transmission on it into the shop, separate those, and stick the engine on a stand.  Unfortunately, it was stuck from sitting, and the fact that a mouse somehow was up in the exhaust manifold and rusted one of the cylinders and valves.  I hate those terrible little animals, they got no reason.

But, penetrating oil down the plug holes, took the intake and exhaust manifolds off and more down those holes.  Wasn't stuck too bad, I got the motor turning pretty quickly, and spins freely and easily now.

Took off all of the bolt-ons, and started cleaning up the block.  I didn't check compression for real, but stuck a finger over each plug hole and spun it.  They all felt pretty uniform, and the plugs themselves all looked black and sooty, but the same across all 7 besides the rusty one that the mouse had caused.  #6 was the mouse Cylinder.  But, even that one came into it and felt like all of the others after spinning it around a while.

I think when I bought it with the broken block back then, I figured I might street rod it or something and bought it anyway.  I used to think I wanted a fast car, but a couple years ago I bought a 2005 Mustang GT in almost new shape, and realized about a month later that I think I have grown out of that phase, and sold it in the spring.  So now, I'm thinking I will probably just clean it up, paint everything, fix everything that makes sense, and make it an original driver, like it was in about 1940 or so.

Now for the questions to get some advice from anybody who is interested in sharing what they know about these cars.  From what I've read on here, you guys know your stuff.  Pretty impressive.

First of all, I'll get some pictures up of my progress on this thing, probably tomorrow.  I've got to go up to work for something else anyway, I'll snap some pictures of what I've got going on, see what you guys think.

But, today, when I pulled the oil pan off of the engine, there was about a half of an inch of sludge in the bottom of it.  Not too worried about that, but, I did find a small piece of metal in there, that was about the size and shape of a 1/4" compression fitting collar, if you had cut it in half.  Kind of a semicircle shape.  Could that be part of something in the hydraulic lifter plunger assemblies or something?  I'm hoping it is just something that got accidentally dropped into the engine somehow.  I'll post a picture.

As for the sludge, I'd like to clean all of that out of there, but, was wondering if there was a cheap way, besides a full teardown and rebuild, since the block is trash anyway.  Do you think I could just disassemble the internals, clean out the sludge, and oil passages, and reassemble?  or are there parts in there that can't be reused since they've been torqued once like a modern day head gasket?  This thing doesn't look too complicated, kind of like an overgrown lawn mower engine.

I do have a good Cadillac 346 block, Crank, and Journals, that has been cleaned and magnafluxed that I got from a guy named Jack Carroll in New Hampshire way back at the beginning of all of this as well years ago.  Great guy.  I think I might have even found him on here.  One of the cylinders has a pretty good scratch in it, but, other than that, the block looks great.  Is there a cheap way to take the two engines I have and make one good one here, without spending 5k?  Don't really care if it's not mint condition or anything, you should see my daily driver.

Anyway, your thoughts and advice are appreciated.  Since starting on my reassembly and everything here a few weeks ago, I'm into it for about $200, trying to keep it a budget restoration here.  It's basically the Cadillac version of restoring a Crown Victoria or something, I don't think it's ever going to be worth much.  Although, if anybody's got a cheap '37 Opera Coupe body from firewall back kicking around I could swap on instead, maybe I'd be interested?

Thanks guys,

Jack

JLB

Jack from Vermont,

This is Jim from Saginaw and I am working with a 1940 V16. I have posted a few notes on repairing cast iron blocks. For interesting reading you can find them under Parts Wanted and Restoration. Or maybe just take a look at the Lock-N-Stitch website for a deeper education on cast iron repair.

With my discovery of a badly destroyed block, I considered going forward with a Chevy V8. That would have been cheaper than finding a new block and doing the big expensive rebuild. I am guessing the cost of rebuilding a V16 to be close to twice the price of a V8. I decided in favor to keeping the car a V16, just because I like cars that are maintained as being close to original. I have been now keeping a car or a motorcycle or both in close to original condition for 50 years. Nothing stays exactly original. So if you allow me to have a vote, stay with something original or close to it.

Best Luck,

Jim LeBlanc
1940 Series 90 Town Car
Jim LeBlanc
jim_leblanc@yahoo.com
1940 V16 Town Car
CLC Member #33340

Detritus

Hi Jim, thanks for the vote.  At this point the heaviest modification this car is going to get, is a Cadillac 346 block and pistons.  Just move all of my bolt ons over to the new short block.  Even the heads so it looks like a 37.  But, even more likely, I'm just going to run the one that used to be in it.

Definitely agree with your choice to save the v-16.  How many of those can be left?  Gotta do it.

Here's some pictures of my project.




Detritus

Boy doesn't look like much in pictures yet, does it?  Feels like I got new than that done.

Anyway, here's the piece of metal I found in the oil pan sludge.  Any idea of what it is?  No matter what, this motor is probably going to get put back together and ran anyway...




Mike Baillargeon #15848

I was working on a 35 LaSalle motor and I found one of those in the oil pan also.....they are 1 of a 2 piece clip that holds the spring onto a valve stem....

I looked at all my valves and they all had both pieces....who ever was working on the valve train at some point must have dropped one into the pan....

Mike
Mike
Baillargeon
#15848

Detritus

See, what was that, 20 minutes, mystery solved?  You guys are great, thanks Mike.

I'm planning on taking the whole valve train out anyway for cleaning and stuff, I'll see if all of mine are present then I guess.  I just ordered one of those valve spring compressor things made for these engines off of ebay.  Guy from New Hampshire.  Wouldn't be surprised if he's on here as well.

How about that block repair someone did? Not exactly pretty, but, scars are what give you character, and stories to tell.  Always felt bad about what i did to this car, but, I'm finally moving in the right direction for the old girl.

Thanks again,

Jack

las39

1939 LaSalle 5027
1941 Chrysler Royal Coupe
1934 Oldsmobile F34
1976 Moto Guzzi Convert

The Tassie Devil(le)

Loved the workmanship of these chaps.

The basic tools, and no need for a bench, or safety wear.   Reminded me of how I did Cylinder Head work, oh, and still do when the need arises.   

Bruce. >:D

But, I do use a bench as I am not as flexible.
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

59-in-pieces

Thanks Mo.

These guys are pre-shade tree mechanics - no tree in sight for shade for them - just a Target/Kmart fan.
Love the squat technique - feet flat to the floor - hurt my back just watching.
Oh, and no OSHA - and likely a non-union shop.
And we lament sending jobs overseas to get things done cheaper - easy to see why.

Have fun,
Steve B.
S. Butcher