Aloha From Hawaii - Bought a '59 And Need To Drive it 2000+ Miles Upon Pick Up

[35-709]

"Wix oil filter good?  Or the one that Napa sells?"

Wix is the filter you want --- NAPA Gold is same as, and made by, Wix, so either one.

[Deaf Paul]

Thanks for that useful bit of information regarding the Napa and Wix filters being the same, G-35-709!   

-Paul

[Lexi]

Agree. Wix is tops. Clay/Lexi

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

FwIW no one over here (islands) seems to run over 9:1 because, they say the fuel.   Lowers I ve seen on hot rods are at a. Extreme under drug. Mainly for show on street cars.
Greg Surfas

[Deaf Paul]

Surprised to hear that. Old cars only? I checked the compression ratio of my last 5 cars and the lowest one had 10:2:1 (Viper) and the highest had 11:5:1 (Lotus Elise). No issues with either on Hawaii 91 gas and all these were daily driven (and flogged hard at times). This '59 will be the first car I won't drive hard.  I'm getting old and slow. 

-Paul

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Older cars only Paul. Newer stuff has the sensors and electronics to digest lower octane when they "see"'them.
Greg Surfas

[Deaf Paul]

Are there any interesting observations or information to be gleaned by the only picture I have of the engine bay so far?  I do note the aftermarket air filter.  Not sure if that's a good or a bad thing.

I see a second set of coolers (right term?) in front of the main radiator.  Is that for the aftermarket AC I'm told the car has?

Is that radiator original?  If so, would it be best to swap it out for a new one, or have cored/cleaned and reuse?

I'm told the radiator fan is connected to the engine via pulley.  I assume that's the original set up and called "mechanically driven".  I'm trying to learn about clutch fans and electric fans as I figure out whether to leave that alone or if that should be changed to something else.  Thoughts?

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Paul
Caught your post on the other thread where you mention LS swap. I know I will get boos and hissed for this and this is actually the ONLY time I have ever said this but in your specific case if you have the funds an LS engine transmission and AC swap would be the best thing. Aside from the dependability across the Mainland you would be able to find mechanical services on the islands and probably be able to cruise H-1'at 70 mph during rush hour LOL
Greg Surfas

[Big Fins]

Wix oil filters are top notch. NAPA Gold are Wix, with another name on them. So, whichever your parts supplier has and/or is cheaper. I buy my AC Delco filters by the case because all of the spin-on units are the same from 1960 and up to I believe 1976.

[35-709]

"I see a second set of coolers (right term?) in front of the main radiator.  Is that for the aftermarket AC I'm told the car has?

Is that radiator original?  If so, would it be best to swap it out for a new one, or have cored/cleaned and reuse?

I'm told the radiator fan is connected to the engine via pulley.  I assume that's the original set up and called "mechanically driven".  I'm trying to learn about clutch fans and electric fans as I figure out whether to leave that alone or if that should be changed to something else.  Thoughts?"

The second "cooler" in front of the radiator is the condenser for the AC and it is properly positioned.

The radiator appears to be an original type.  As I suggested in my rather long list earlier in this thread, I would pull it and have it pressure checked and flushed and checked for proper flow.  Your radiator man can advise as to whether it should be rodded or not.  If it checks out, and passes a pressure check, I would go with it.  The radiator on your car  is mounted ahead of the cross member support as was done with cars that had AC from the factory.  Non-AC cars had the radiator behind that cross member.

The AC compressor appears to be an A6, your car would have had an A5 from the factory.  Many A5s were changed over to A6s when they were introduced in the early '60s.  Believe the factory even offered a new mounting kit for a time for the conversion through Cadillac dealers for older Cadillacs with the earlier A5 compressors.

Your car would have come with a belt driven fan, it served the purpose well.  If it is no longer sufficient, you have a cooling problem elsewhere.  You might consider an electric fan in front of the AC condenser, wired to come on when the AC is on, for cooler air from the air conditioner when in slow traffic.  But again, the proper factory installed fan should be sufficient.  I personally would stay away from clutch fans, my opinion.   

[35-709]

Forgot your car has a cartridge type filter and not the spin-on.  The WIX number for your filter is WIX 51100, available on www.Rockauto.com  Don't know if NAPA has a "GOLD" filter in the cartridge type, they might.  The counter-man should be able to tell you, or find out.

[dochawk]

Newer stuff has the sensors and electronics to digest lower octane when they "see"'them.

Some, perhaps most.

But I found that my 2006 Miata doesn't do that, or at least not well.

I'd had it a while, at least months, when I absentmindedly put regular into it (after twenty some-odd years of using the same hose at ARCO, well . . .)

A couple of days later, someone blundered into my space on the freeway, and I had to gun it to get out of his path, and . . . the engine lugged and and sagged, and the car slowed.  Fortunately, the clueless one finally pulled back.

Subsequent experimentation showed that mid grade was sufficient to handle sudden acceleration.

A Northstar, however, catches the situation in time to adjust the timing.

[cadman59]

There are some interesting things that can be seen in your picture:

1) Your car has the factory AC blower fan casing. This likely means the car was originally equipped with factory AC.
2) The master brake cylinder is not the original style. Probably the brake booster is also a later style unit.
3) It seems the car is missing the windshield wipers.
4) The windshield washer reservoir (large glass bottle) is missing
5) The original mechanical fuel pump is missing, probably it has been replaced by an inline electric fuel pump.
6) An inline fuel filter has been fitted. Original AC-equipped cars would have a fuel return line from (glass bowl) filter to the fuel tank, keeping the fuel cooler reducing the risk of vapor lock
7) I doubt the battery is fixed to the battery tray; normally there would be a hold-down bar across the battery.
8.) As far as I can see the car is equipped with an AC alternator instead of an original DC alternator. It still has the original voltage regulator though.
9) As you already noticed yourself, it has an aftermarket Edelbrock air filter. Probably the original carburetor also has been replaced by an Edelbrock carburetor.

[bctexas]

Are there any interesting observations or information to be gleaned by the only picture I have of the engine bay so far?  I do note the aftermarket air filter.  Not sure if that's a good or a bad thing.

The only downside to the Edelbrock air filter is noise.  The original style air filter housing does a good job of masking air intake noise - the open element filter lets you hear it all - I tried one on one of my cars and found it objectionable.

Happy Motoring!

[Deaf Paul]

There are some interesting things that can be seen in your picture:

1) Your car has the factory AC blower fan casing. This likely means the car was originally equipped with factory AC.
2) The master brake cylinder is not the original style. Probably the brake booster is also a later style unit.
3) It seems the car is missing the windshield wipers.
4) The windshield washer reservoir (large glass bottle) is missing
5) The original mechanical fuel pump is missing, probably it has been replaced by an inline electric fuel pump.
6) An inline fuel filter has been fitted. Original AC-equipped cars would have a fuel return line from (glass bowl) filter to the fuel tank, keeping the fuel cooler reducing the risk of vapor lock
7) I doubt the battery is fixed to the battery tray; normally there would be a hold-down bar across the battery.
8.) As far as I can see the car is equipped with an AC alternator instead of an original DC alternator. It still has the original voltage regulator though.
9) As you already noticed yourself, it has an aftermarket Edelbrock air filter. Probably the original carburetor also has been replaced by an Edelbrock carburetor.

Amazing observations!  THANK you, that helps a ton from all the way over here in Hawaii.
2.  Is this a single or dual brake cylinder are you able to tell?  Looks small and I see one hump so I'm guessing single and this should be upgraded to dual?  would then need to have a second hose added to the F/R splitter correct?  Boosters - What do I need to know?

3.  Good catch.  I see resto adjustable wiper arms available on summitracing.  Will order a pair along with blades.

4.  I didn't even realize this and I've seen them in other pictures of different 59's.  I see some glass ones available on various restoration sites.  I assume I will also need to source a bracket as well, I don't see anything where it's supposed to be.  Where is the washer fluid pump located?  Does it go in the glass reservoir or  somewhere else? Is it missing?  Do I need one as well?

5.  I think that's great news - hopefully all sorted out and I can find out which pump is there, and source a spare to carry for the trip.

6.  I didn't know that AC cars came with a return fuel line.  That's great news for vapor lock concerns.  I will ask my friend, or whoever works on the car to confirm a return fuel line is still there, or if not for some reason, to add one back on.  That's the smart thing to do, yes?

7.  Good point - I'll see if I can fashion a strap once I touch down over there and swing by the hardware store or an auto parts store there.  It's required to pass my state's safety inspection laws before I can legally drive the car here (along with working wipers and wiper fluid spraying).

8.  Is the original voltage regulator doing anything or should it be removed, or updated?  I was planning to have: PNX-71181 - PerTronix Ignitor III® Solid-State Ignition System update done along with PNX-40011 - PerTronix Coils and PNX-708103 - PerTronix 7mm Spark Plug Wire Set installe to make sure everything plays nice as I am completely clueless about points and adusting them.  I also THINK the III Ignitor has a rev limiter option which will give me peace of mind as I cannot hear and there is no tachometer.  I worry about the car possibly not shifting up, or the car accidentally being left in a lower gear.  I was warned that the motor is very quiet and isolated from the driver so I would likely not feel any ovverreving vibrations.

9.  Oh boy.  Will ask mechanic to find out what's going on with that.

Paul

[Deaf Paul]

The only downside to the Edelbrock air filter is noise.  The original style air filter housing does a good job of masking air intake noise - the open element filter lets you hear it all - I tried one on one of my cars and found it objectionable.

Not a problem for me.  Check my user name.   

-Paul

[dn010]

If the original carb was replaced with an Edelbrock, I'd leave it alone, especially if you don't have any shifting/kick down issues. I don't know what 59's come with, but I changed my original to one a long time ago and have had 0 issues, especially with the ethanol ridden fuel. To me, I feel this is an "upgrade" of sorts. Compared to the Rochester 4GC: I have not had to do any sort of adjustments on it aside from idle speed, I've not had to take it apart to measure floats, I've not had any vapor lock, etc, etc...    It runs very well.

[cadman59]

Amazing observations!  THANK you, that helps a ton from all the way over here in Hawaii.
2.  Is this a single or dual brake cylinder are you able to tell?  Looks small and I see one hump so I'm guessing single and this should be upgraded to dual?  would then need to have a second hose added to the F/R splitter correct?  Boosters - What do I need to know?

3.  Good catch.  I see resto adjustable wiper arms available on summitracing.  Will order a pair along with blades.

4.  I didn't even realize this and I've seen them in other pictures of different 59's.  I see some glass ones available on various restoration sites.  I assume I will also need to source a bracket as well, I don't see anything where it's supposed to be.  Where is the washer fluid pump located?  Does it go in the glass reservoir or  somewhere else? Is it missing?  Do I need one as well?

5.  I think that's great news - hopefully all sorted out and I can find out which pump is there, and source a spare to carry for the trip.

6.  I didn't know that AC cars came with a return fuel line.  That's great news for vapor lock concerns.  I will ask my friend, or whoever works on the car to confirm a return fuel line is still there, or if not for some reason, to add one back on.  That's the smart thing to do, yes?

7.  Good point - I'll see if I can fashion a strap once I touch down over there and swing by the hardware store or an auto parts store there.  It's required to pass my state's safety inspection laws before I can legally drive the car here (along with working wipers and wiper fluid spraying).

8.  Is the original voltage regulator doing anything or should it be removed, or updated?  I was planning to have: PNX-71181 - PerTronix Ignitor III® Solid-State Ignition System update done along with PNX-40011 - PerTronix Coils and PNX-708103 - PerTronix 7mm Spark Plug Wire Set installe to make sure everything plays nice as I am completely clueless about points and adusting them.  I also THINK the III Ignitor has a rev limiter option which will give me peace of mind as I cannot hear and there is no tachometer.  I worry about the car possibly not shifting up, or the car accidentally being left in a lower gear.  I was warned that the motor is very quiet and isolated from the driver so I would likely not feel any ovverreving vibrations.

9.  Oh boy.  Will ask mechanic to find out what's going on with that.

Paul

2. I can't tell you what's in there now, but the original brakesystem is a single system setup. Of coarse it could well be that the current master brake cylinder and brake booster are working perfectly well.

4. You are right; it seems the original bracket for the glass windshield washer reservoir is also missing. If you are not up to originality you might also go for some plastic reservoir. The washer pump is located inside the wiper motor. There are rebuild kits available for the pump (membrane and valves).

6. I don't know how you could setup a return fuel line with an aftermarket inline fuel filter. Maybe someone else could chime in. A return fuel line is a good idea I think. My own '59 has no AC and so also no return fuel line, but due to Vapor Lock issues (caused my the modern fuels) I am also considering to replace the original filter to the one meant for AC and add the return fuel line.

7. About the spraying washers: be aware that also the washer nozzles are missing (at least the one on the drivers side, the other one cannot be seen in the picture). The washer nozzles are located on escutcheons on the wiper shafts, which is missing in your picture.

8. I cannot see if the original voltage regulator is still in use; probably the current alternator setup is working fine. About the Pertronix III: I have read several bad experiences with this in relation with our cars. The original distributor setup with points is, when in good condition, perfectly well.

9. A good Edelbrock carburetor is better than a worn original one, I think. As long as the Edelbrock is set up with the correct metering jets and metering rods for your engine. Also, I cannot tell from the picture how the choke was set up now, but I think in Hawaii you won't need a choke anyway.

So there are a number of non-original systems on your car. That's no problem if you're not up to originality, but just be aware that whenever you might need service or new parts for these systems you cannot just follow the workshop manual or order the correct parts for a '59 Cadillac but will have to find out what has previously been installed in your car.

[Deaf Paul]

Update:  Car was dropped off yesterday to the mechanic that somebody in an earlier post had recommend and we heard back today:

All 4 brake wheel cylinders are leaking.  Mechanic will replace/refurb.

All 4 drum brake pads "are pretty much in pieces and just floating around in the drums"     New pads being brought in the morning.  Check/repack hub bearings at the same time the pads are installed.  Brake lines reportedly looks new.

Still no word on if the master cylinder is still a single or a dual.  I asked to follow up on that.  If single, I assume I should have it replaced with a dual,and have a second line added to the F/R split.  What about booster(s).  Is this separate, or do I need another one?  Don't understand where/how boosters are set up.  Advice?

AC compressor main seal on the front is blown out.  Waiting on estimate to get that replaced.

He wants to add fresh wires, plugs and tune/reset the timing.  He seems neutral about upgrading it to electronic.  I'm leaning towards going electronic.  Good idea?  PerTronix Ignitor III, Ignition coils, 7mm spark plug wire set from the same company.  That's all that's needed right?

Still don't know if radiator is good, needs rodding, or needs replacing.  Don't know if hoses are still good or need replacing.

Still have not found out if it's still running dual fuel lines and what fuel pump and filter(s) are there.

Still don't know if gas tank is original, ok, or needs replacing.  $650 shipped for stainless steel replacement w straps and sending unit on ebay.

Still don't know if the "broken wipers" is the switch, wiring, or motor itself.

Car still starting up and running good otherwise.  Mechanic seemed to say the car will be fine.

-Paul

[35-709]

"Still no word on if the master cylinder is still a single or a dual.  I asked to follow up on that.  If single, I assume I should have it replaced with a dual, and have a second line added to the F/R split.  What about booster(s).  Is this separate, or do I need another one?  Don't understand where/how boosters are set up.  Advice?"

From the engine picture posted earlier, you have a single pot master.  Always a good idea to replace those with a dual circuit master, in my opinion.  It is bolted to the booster (the round black thing at the firewall) which should work fine with the new dual master --- assuming it is working properly now.

To me, a Pertronix III is overkill for that car, I would use a Pertronix II, but it doesn't matter much, one or the other is fine.