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#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1968 DeVille Choke questio...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 11:48:02 PM

The assembly is held in the well with 2 bolts so you just need to stick a couple washers under it to raise it.   I suppose you could try cutting out a gasket as the spacer because that would then maintain the same gap all the way around so the air flow would remain the same. 

Those vacuum dodads did different things over the years and depending on if there was one or two but if it is a pull off that is just forcing the choke like 1/4" open as soon as the engine starts. It doesn't do anything for the rest of the operation.


If you go look at your 75 the oil pressure switch has 3 terminals on it. One tab is still the light which is now named oil/choke.  The other two terminals close when there is oil pressure so key on power to one terminal then if there is oil pressure (engine running) the other terminal sends power to the choke coil.   They did this so if you had the key on for some reason it would not start unwinding the choke till the engine was running.  Probably not the end of the world these days but was a nice feature. 

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1974 Eldorado stumbles at ...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 11:37:31 PM

A common problem with an HEI is some internal wires crack so when the vacuum advance operates it looses the connection which causes the vacuum to change which moves it again so it makes contact again.  Easy way to check for that is disconnect and plug the vacuum hose for the advance to the distributor.  Assuming it was all working to start with this will make the performance kinda flat but if the hesitation goes away you know you are in the right area. 

Yes it could be the timing chain and a lot of other things.  You can get an idea what sort of shape the timing chain is in by rocking the crank back and fourth while observing the distributor rotor to see how long it takes to respond to direction changes in the crank.  One annoying thing is these didn't come with a bolt in the end of the crank so its not so easy to rock the crank.

These guys have a bolt and washer kit.  Its a little bit of an odd size so its not like you can get it at a typical hardware store.  Maybe look through their catalog and you can find some other goodies to make it worth the shipping cost?
https://cad500parts.com/product/pb11122/

#3

General Discussion / Re: 1960 plug Recomidation

Last post by Cadillac Jack 82 - Today at 11:36:23 PM

Buy NOS green ring AC44s on ebay.  They're worth every penny.

#4

General Discussion / Re: First tire blowout - ever!

Last post by lorenzo2013 - Today at 11:16:29 PM

what did these cars come with standard in terms of white-wall width?  3"?

#5

General Discussion / Re: First tire blowout - ever!

Last post by lorenzo2013 - Today at 11:14:31 PM

People, especially those on the bottom of the planet, can do whatever they want with their cars but we never use the factory bumper, scissors or wheel hub jacks.

We've owned a lot of Cadillacs and parted out many through the years also. It was either the 1963/64 rear center bumper bar (or maybe 1967/68) that it seemed every one had a slight crease where the factory jack had been used by a previous owner. Don't think it is an issue with 1959 but why risk it?

After paying how much money to rechrome your bumpers, why would any vintage Cadillac owner use the factory jack? The trunk is big enough, bring a small floor or bottle jack and some wood or just make sure your tires are new. 

Are the 1959 factory jacks really going for $1200 these days?  Dang, we've got a shelf full of jacks from the 1950s through 1970s. Dang, maybe we can pay off our mortgage or buy another car.

I mean don't get me wrong - I'd prefer NOT to, but the rear tires are hard enough to get out when they're on a lift - i can't imagine how hard it would be when it's sitting on a rim.  and a tow truck?  that's an easy and quick way to get even more damage in my opinion.

I'm going to have to do something more with the jack(s) in the trunk, some more wood, etc.  My concern is a 59 cadillac sitting on a rim on one of the rear tires, there's MAYBE an inch or two of clearance.  Would be hard to get a piece of wood under it to drive onto

Gonna have to test is in the driveway.  At least at this point I have a free rim to play with lol.  i'll see what I can figure out...

#6

General Discussion / Re: First tire blowout - ever!

Last post by lorenzo2013 - Today at 11:11:59 PM

Modern radial tires self-destruct from the inside out, and my understanding is they were designed to do so to help alleviate the junk tire disposal problem.  They are easier to recycle.  Out of the sun, more tire pressure, etc., will do little.  These tires will self destruct mounted and sitting inside your shop/garage or trunk with zero miles on them when their time is up.  Some might go a little further, others less, 7 years is a good number to shoot for - after that replace 'em.   
As Carfreak mentioned, Diamondback is the way to go.  www.dbtires.com
 

You're way more of a "glass half full" person than me.  If anything, tires with shorter shelf life is going to only add to the junkyard tire problem.  Think about it - every one of those tires that needs replacing - where do you think the old tire goes?  It doesn't self-destruct to the point it doesn't exist - it gets replaced by another tire, and goes to a junkyard. 

Honestly I think it's more likely that it's just poorer quality over the years.   Replacing a tire that has been on a car for 7 years and seen <500 miles seems like a shame, but it is what it is.  If you look at the tire that blew (my first post), the tire still has 80%+ tread left, but yet it was falling apart.

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1974 Eldorado hood oil-can...

Last post by "Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364 - Today at 11:08:51 PM

Dan,
between the hood "skin" and the cross bracing below the factory inserted a mastic type filler to provide the strength of the bracing without the noise and vibration. If in fact you are getting a rippling effect of the hood skin you might assume that the mastic has dried out and separated from the structure, allowing the hood skion to vibrate freely. you should be able to check this wothout removing the hood (insulation) pad.
Greg Surfas

#8

General Discussion / Re: First tire blowout - ever!

Last post by Carfreak - Today at 11:03:14 PM

People, especially those on the bottom of the planet, can do whatever they want with their cars but we never use the factory bumper, scissors or wheel hub jacks.

We've owned a lot of Cadillacs and parted out many through the years also. It was either the 1963/64 rear center bumper bar (or maybe 1967/68) that it seemed every one had a slight crease where the factory jack had been used by a previous owner. Don't think it is an issue with 1959 but why risk it?

After paying how much money to rechrome your bumpers, why would any vintage Cadillac owner use the factory jack? The trunk is big enough, bring a small floor or bottle jack and some wood or just make sure your tires are new. 

Are the 1959 factory jacks really going for $1200 these days?  Dang, we've got a shelf full of jacks from the 1950s through 1970s. Dang, maybe we can pay off our mortgage or buy another car.

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 74 Eldorado Convertible fr...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 11:00:58 PM

There are a couple of things that cause this, and loose wiring and connectors is one.

There are two door switches on the front roor opening.   One for the interior lights, and the other for the seat back release.

I found a very odd problem with mine, in as much as the power feed from the junction block actually came out of the plug, and was just sitting there.

I will try and find the pictures.

Bruce.

#10

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1974 Eldorado stumbles at ...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 10:46:55 PM

G'day Dan,

Bruce is referring to the Cam Gear which has a Nylon tooth covering.

This is what happens to them.  And the nylon bits end up filling up the Oil Pickup screen.

Bruce.