- Welcome to Cadillac & LaSalle Club Discussion Forum.
Founded 1958
Recent posts
#1
General Discussion / Re: Not Getting Notification o...
Last post by Roger Zimmermann - Today at 02:51:33 AMWell, I noticed that situation too. Sometimes I'm getting notifications sometimes not.
#2
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Body On Frame W/ Engine Ca...
Last post by Bob Hoffmann CLC#96 - Today at 01:18:15 AMTom,
Please re-read my post. Have you noticed how many cars of all makes riding WAY too high. Like I said it's been a problem for years. Surely you've noticed?? Maybe Carl needs to put a 100 # of sand on each front fender & report the results!! Any vendor that says the springs will settle is lying. !! OEM springs should look like factory fresh.
Bob
Please re-read my post. Have you noticed how many cars of all makes riding WAY too high. Like I said it's been a problem for years. Surely you've noticed?? Maybe Carl needs to put a 100 # of sand on each front fender & report the results!! Any vendor that says the springs will settle is lying. !! OEM springs should look like factory fresh.
Bob
#3
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Body On Frame W/ Engine Ca...
Last post by Tom Beaver - Today at 12:59:09 AMCarl, the weight of the 48 flathead engine and radiator is listed as 992.4 lbs. This does not include the weight of the generator, fan assembly, carburetor and linkages.
When I assembled my LaSalle with body, engine and drive train all bolted in place the upper A-arms completely compressed the rubber bumpers. I removed the rubber bumpers temporarily to keep from damaging them. When I installed the front fenders, radiator, grill shell and hood the upper A-arms were very close to the rubber bumpers and the front of the car rode too high. When I finally got to drive it on the road, the front end was now too low, with the original stock springs. I had new springs made to the original factory specifications, based on the part numbers on the springs. The car now rides like it was supposed to.
With that appreciably lighter Cadillac engine you have you may find that the front of your car will ride to high. But I think, as others have suggested, that you need to completely assemble the car and find out for sure.
When I assembled my LaSalle with body, engine and drive train all bolted in place the upper A-arms completely compressed the rubber bumpers. I removed the rubber bumpers temporarily to keep from damaging them. When I installed the front fenders, radiator, grill shell and hood the upper A-arms were very close to the rubber bumpers and the front of the car rode too high. When I finally got to drive it on the road, the front end was now too low, with the original stock springs. I had new springs made to the original factory specifications, based on the part numbers on the springs. The car now rides like it was supposed to.
With that appreciably lighter Cadillac engine you have you may find that the front of your car will ride to high. But I think, as others have suggested, that you need to completely assemble the car and find out for sure.
#4
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 CDV pulls left on bra...
Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 12:30:58 AMYes, but the springs were used to control, or eliminate squealing brakes.
Looking at the Shop Manual, the specifications of the front and rear drums are the same, but looking at other '60's, the front drums do not have the radial fins. just the grooves.
Bruce.
Looking at the Shop Manual, the specifications of the front and rear drums are the same, but looking at other '60's, the front drums do not have the radial fins. just the grooves.
Bruce.
#5
Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 1937 Cadillac / La Salle
Last post by Bob Hoffmann CLC#96 - Yesterday at 11:45:33 PMPLEASE don't use a phoney CLC # !!
#6
Restoration Corner / Re: 1934 Cadillac 355D Sedan R...
Last post by David Matousek - Yesterday at 11:43:09 PMQuote from: 35-709 on September 22, 2023, 08:08:37 PMHi David, my car is a resto-mod. I do not have that door, and I do not think (as you suspect) it was factory. I have seen a few stock '34/'35s and do not remember seeing one on any of them. There are some other, more knowledgeable, members familiar with those years that visit here that can maybe give a more definitive answer to your question. Best of luck on that restoration, your work is beautiful.
Geoff N.
Hi Geoff... thank you for your reply and providing what knowledge and past history you have on this grille access door. Hopefully I'll hear from other members on this subject and why someone would have made this modification, if this wasn't a factory feature. From what I can see, it appears there would be no other way to adjust the operation of the radiator louvers without this access door.
David Matousek
#7
Technical / Authenticity / Re: ZDDP in oil
Last post by Chopper1942 - Yesterday at 10:59:05 PMSome of the additives have lead in them. Usually, they specify for off road use only; i.e. racing. Others are listed as lead substitutes and can be used on the streets depending where you live.
Today, lead substitutes use a variety of proprietary formulas, often based on manganese, sodium, phosphate, or iron, rather than lead, to fulfill the function of lead without the toxic side effects and harm to catalytic converters.
I copied this explanation from Amsoil's web site and is a good explanation why to use a fuel additive. Of course, they would like you to use theirs.
"Classic-car owners sometimes ask if they need to add lead substitute to their gasoline. For decades, Tetraethyllead was added to gasoline to reduce engine knock and help prevent valve-seat recession. Once lead's negative effects became clear, regulators began phasing it out in the 1970s. But, what about classic-car engines from the 1950s and 1960s that were built with leaded gasoline in mind? Do they require a lead substitute?
Why lead was added to gasoline
First, let's look at the primary reasons lead was added to gasoline in the first place.
Increase octane to help reduce engine knock
Protect against valve-seat recession
Lead protected against pre-ignition' Gasoline's octane rating indicates its ability to withstand compression before igniting. During operation, the piston travels up the cylinder and compresses the fuel/air mixture in preparation for ignition. Compression heats the mixture to help it ignite more easily and burn more completely. Compressing the fuel/air also maximizes the volume packed into the cylinder, which boosts power and efficiency. All other factors being equal, that's why engines with higher compression ratios typically put out more power.
If the compressed, heated gasoline reaches its ignition point too soon, however, it will auto-ignite prior to the spark plug firing. This disrupts engine timing, reduces power and can damage the engine. It's important to use gasoline with the correct octane rating for your engine to avoid pre-ignition. Higher-compression engines require higher-octane gas.
Chemists discovered in the 1920s that Tetraethyllead added to gasoline was a cost-effective solution to pre-ignition and helped engines run better.
Lead also protected against valve recession
Lead also emerged as an effective way to protect against valve-seat recession, which can occur under high-rpm, high-heat, high-load conditions.
As the intensely hot exhaust valve hammers against the valve seat thousands of times per minute, the two components can momentarily fuse together in a process called "microwelding."
Once the valve opens, the microweld tears apart. Multiply this by thousands of times and the valve seat deteriorates until the valve no longer seats properly. This leads to compression and power loss, in addition to catastrophic failure if the valve breaks off.
Hardened valve seats introduced
By the mid-1970s, we'd become aware of lead's negative effects on human health, the environment and automotive catalytic converters. As regulators began working to eliminate lead from gasoline (and other products), engineers began designing engines with unleaded gas in mind. To combat microwelding, they used hardened valve seats, which are more resilient to valve recession.
That's great for engines of that era and today, but what about your classic car engine that was built prior to widespread use of hardened valve seats?
Lead substitutes offer an answer
To solve the problem, many enthusiasts add a lead substitute to their gasoline. Lead substitutes contain chemicals that form a sacrificial layer to inhibit microwelds and protect valve seats; they're easy to find at any parts store or online.
Do I need a lead substitute?
This is one of those garage debates that never seems to get settled, like the debate over the best motor oil brand or whether you should flush an engine with high miles.
For starters, if you've rebuilt the motor or done work to the cylinder heads, it's likely that hardened valve seats were used, which means a lead substitute isn't necessary.
However, if the engine is original and uses stock valve seats (i.e. non-hardened), we recommend using a lead substitute for added protection.
This is especially true if your operating conditions border on "severe" territory. For a cast-iron, high-compression-ratio engine of that era, it doesn't take much to wind up the rpm, turn up the heat and operate in conditions that promote valve-seat recession. Using a lead substitute offers peace of mind that your classic is protected.
So, which lead substitute should you use?
AMSOIL DOMINATOR® Octane Boost
It's no secret that we suggest AMSOIL DOMINATOR Octane Boost.
It contains a healthy dose of MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl), which is a metallic additive that creates a sacrificial barrier on valve seats to help prevent recession and keep your engine running strong. It's excellent as a lead substitute.
Not only that, as its name suggests, it boosts octane up to four numbers, which is just as important in older high-compression engines that were made with leaded gas in mind. It increases engine response and power in all two- and four-stroke gasoline-fueled engines. Just one treatment reduces engine knock, improves ignition and helps fuel burn cleaner."
Hope this adds a little info about this subject.
Today, lead substitutes use a variety of proprietary formulas, often based on manganese, sodium, phosphate, or iron, rather than lead, to fulfill the function of lead without the toxic side effects and harm to catalytic converters.
I copied this explanation from Amsoil's web site and is a good explanation why to use a fuel additive. Of course, they would like you to use theirs.
"Classic-car owners sometimes ask if they need to add lead substitute to their gasoline. For decades, Tetraethyllead was added to gasoline to reduce engine knock and help prevent valve-seat recession. Once lead's negative effects became clear, regulators began phasing it out in the 1970s. But, what about classic-car engines from the 1950s and 1960s that were built with leaded gasoline in mind? Do they require a lead substitute?
Why lead was added to gasoline
First, let's look at the primary reasons lead was added to gasoline in the first place.
Increase octane to help reduce engine knock
Protect against valve-seat recession
Lead protected against pre-ignition' Gasoline's octane rating indicates its ability to withstand compression before igniting. During operation, the piston travels up the cylinder and compresses the fuel/air mixture in preparation for ignition. Compression heats the mixture to help it ignite more easily and burn more completely. Compressing the fuel/air also maximizes the volume packed into the cylinder, which boosts power and efficiency. All other factors being equal, that's why engines with higher compression ratios typically put out more power.
If the compressed, heated gasoline reaches its ignition point too soon, however, it will auto-ignite prior to the spark plug firing. This disrupts engine timing, reduces power and can damage the engine. It's important to use gasoline with the correct octane rating for your engine to avoid pre-ignition. Higher-compression engines require higher-octane gas.
Chemists discovered in the 1920s that Tetraethyllead added to gasoline was a cost-effective solution to pre-ignition and helped engines run better.
Lead also protected against valve recession
Lead also emerged as an effective way to protect against valve-seat recession, which can occur under high-rpm, high-heat, high-load conditions.
As the intensely hot exhaust valve hammers against the valve seat thousands of times per minute, the two components can momentarily fuse together in a process called "microwelding."
Once the valve opens, the microweld tears apart. Multiply this by thousands of times and the valve seat deteriorates until the valve no longer seats properly. This leads to compression and power loss, in addition to catastrophic failure if the valve breaks off.
Hardened valve seats introduced
By the mid-1970s, we'd become aware of lead's negative effects on human health, the environment and automotive catalytic converters. As regulators began working to eliminate lead from gasoline (and other products), engineers began designing engines with unleaded gas in mind. To combat microwelding, they used hardened valve seats, which are more resilient to valve recession.
That's great for engines of that era and today, but what about your classic car engine that was built prior to widespread use of hardened valve seats?
Lead substitutes offer an answer
To solve the problem, many enthusiasts add a lead substitute to their gasoline. Lead substitutes contain chemicals that form a sacrificial layer to inhibit microwelds and protect valve seats; they're easy to find at any parts store or online.
Do I need a lead substitute?
This is one of those garage debates that never seems to get settled, like the debate over the best motor oil brand or whether you should flush an engine with high miles.
For starters, if you've rebuilt the motor or done work to the cylinder heads, it's likely that hardened valve seats were used, which means a lead substitute isn't necessary.
However, if the engine is original and uses stock valve seats (i.e. non-hardened), we recommend using a lead substitute for added protection.
This is especially true if your operating conditions border on "severe" territory. For a cast-iron, high-compression-ratio engine of that era, it doesn't take much to wind up the rpm, turn up the heat and operate in conditions that promote valve-seat recession. Using a lead substitute offers peace of mind that your classic is protected.
So, which lead substitute should you use?
AMSOIL DOMINATOR® Octane Boost
It's no secret that we suggest AMSOIL DOMINATOR Octane Boost.
It contains a healthy dose of MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl), which is a metallic additive that creates a sacrificial barrier on valve seats to help prevent recession and keep your engine running strong. It's excellent as a lead substitute.
Not only that, as its name suggests, it boosts octane up to four numbers, which is just as important in older high-compression engines that were made with leaded gas in mind. It increases engine response and power in all two- and four-stroke gasoline-fueled engines. Just one treatment reduces engine knock, improves ignition and helps fuel burn cleaner."
Hope this adds a little info about this subject.
#8
General Discussion / Re: HELLO
Last post by Bob Hoffmann CLC#96 - Yesterday at 10:57:10 PMCarl,
Yes!!! I'm always suspicious of newbies or anyone with a phony CLC# .The moderators should explain when these people want to join.
#1 joining this board does NOT, repeat NOT, make you a member of the CLC.
You a member of the message board ONLY.
Don't use some random CLC # !!
#2 I can usually spot those #'s right away.
If you want a CLC # PLESE join!!
Bob Hoffmann CLC#96
Yes!!! I'm always suspicious of newbies or anyone with a phony CLC# .The moderators should explain when these people want to join.
#1 joining this board does NOT, repeat NOT, make you a member of the CLC.
You a member of the message board ONLY.
Don't use some random CLC # !!
#2 I can usually spot those #'s right away.
If you want a CLC # PLESE join!!
Bob Hoffmann CLC#96
#9
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 CDV pulls left on bra...
Last post by Chopper1942 - Yesterday at 10:23:04 PMRock Auto lists several different brands with pictures of the drums They have the same part numbers for fronts and rear. The drums are finned. In the 60's Buick used finned drums front and rear. The purpose of the fins is to help dissipate the heat from the drums.
#10
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Ranco valves 1956
Last post by dplotkin - Yesterday at 10:00:06 PMFusick Olds/Cad/Buick parts, East Windsor Ct. Will fix any Ranco valve.
Dan
Dan