Recent posts

#21

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1959 original generator to...

Last post by cadman59 - Today at 02:15:28 PM

Hi all,

Just want to let you know that, thanks to fellow member Brian Faull, I now have an original wiring harness including the original fuse holder. 
Though the wiring has become very stiff and needs to be replaced I am very happy with the original fuse holder, and that I can use the original harness to use as a template.

Besides the wiring harness he also had a correct original adjustment generator bracket for my non AC car, and an original fuel hose clamp (the one that attaches below the mounting bolt of the generator bracket).

It gives a lot of fun bringing back some original parts to the car.

#22

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 2000 Eldorado ETC P0741 Co...

Last post by smokuspollutus - Today at 02:14:19 PM

This usually means the sensor needs to be replaced. Unfortunately the trans has to be rebuilt to do that. If you do not have emissions in your state, best to leave it alone.

#23

General Discussion / Re: Good video explaining zinc...

Last post by smokuspollutus - Today at 02:02:34 PM

Interesting video TJ.

I run Rotella oil as it is cheap and available, and is similar to the oils my era cars were designed to run. Nothing has to be added to it to get it up to snuff which is a big plus. I have not had any abnormal wear or failures in the past 30-40k combined miles I have put since switching over.

I had spoken to a mechanic who does a lot of work on Northstars. I didn't know at the time but apparently the first generation Northstars (93-99) were made with flat tappet cams. He said that in almost every one he takes apart, the vehicles have cam and or follower wear. This adds a lot of expense to the head gasket job and he has ended up owning a few of these cars due to that fact.

This was interesting to me as the Northstar showed up at right about the end of the flat tappet era and was probably spec'd for the older oils. But they were in daily service during all of the reformulations. So they likely got fed whatever the shop was buying in bulk which were the reformulated oils that are supposedly backwards compatible.

For now I'll continue running diesel spec oil in my old flat tappets until some regulator finds a new species that's going extinct because of me.

#24

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1978 Eldorado Biarritz Pho...

Last post by smokuspollutus - Today at 01:49:10 PM

More like 1499 weren't a Biarritz!

#25

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1953 Eldorado barn find, t...

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 01:18:07 PM

This would be a great car to restore, providing the floors are still in it. All the windows are down and it looks like the rear window is missing or broken, so it's probably filled with pigeon and chicken crap, not to mention the rat crap.
Is that $99,999. the price or was that one of your parameters for your search?

Rick

#26

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1954 Fleetwood AC compress...

Last post by Caddy Wizard - Today at 01:17:03 PM

That looks like the right AC compressor.  In 55, the compressor had a conventional AC compressor electromagnetic clutch.  In 53 (and I think 54) they had this solenoid operated clutch.

#27

General Discussion / Re: 1951 Caddy daily driver

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 01:10:39 PM

  A quick test of your switches would be to remove one at a time and disconnect the wire, then ground that wire to see if your lights come on. The switches are just a grounding point for the courtesy lights at each individual door.
So you know that the lights are working with one of the doors, so test the other 3 by grounding your wire at the switch. Just make sure that the other doors are closed to eliminate any false results.
If grounding doesn't work for one or more of them, then you know you will have to trace the wiring back from each inoperative switch to find the fault.
Typically there is a junction or splice on that circuit where it branches out to the individual switches that can operate the lights. This will include any switch on one or more of your light housings if so equipped. This splice can corrode from water getting on it over time and I've seen them even burn apart due to this. The resistance becomes high enough to cause the wire/s to burn free from the connection.
I'm guessing that you have probably 2 dome lights, maybe more, my 56 has 2, one on each side above the doors. Plus the map light may operate with the door switches. I have my car all apart so I'm going by memory on the map light.
Hope this helps some.

Rick

 Edit: 
If you find your lights work by grounding the wire, your switch is not working. You can test each of these with a multimeter on the continuity setting with the switch out and disconnected.
 Question, did you disassemble the switches to clean them, or just clean up the contact where the wire goes?

#28

General Discussion / Re: FORUM RULES - Please read ...

Last post by Stefan Bartelski (CLC Webmaster) - Today at 01:08:12 PM

The rules have been updated, please see above

#29

General Discussion / Re: 1951 Caddy daily driver

Last post by dn010 - Today at 12:51:49 PM

Well I would probably start by swapping the good switch out for a switch from a door that doesn't activate the light and see what happens.

#30

General Discussion / Re: How to find your CLC numbe...

Last post by Stefan Bartelski (CLC Webmaster) - Today at 12:49:49 PM

I've never been all that enamored with a CLC membership but I have been a member since Jan 2020. I last paid dues  9/24 and I am listed on this site as a member in the member list BUT where the heck do I find my number? I looked at every past email I received from the original approval of my membership to every renewal email and not one mentioned my CLC number. I tried to log onto the site but have forgotten my password and to get that reset you have to know what your CLC number is! The sure don't make it easy.

And you can always contact the CLC Office (details at the top of the Home page on the main site) to get your number.