What have you done with your Cadillac today?

[jwwseville60]

Took two friends for a ride in the Shenandoah Valley on an 82 degree day.

[K_Cassutt]

I took my 67 Eldo for a short drive to a restaurant she regularly visited 40 years ago.

[Mike Baillargeon #15848]

K....What's that bungy cord stuff hanging under the car??

Mike

[jaxops]

Buffed the 1956 hood & fenders, and then waxed them!  Installed a clock in the 1949.

[jaxops]

Buffed-polished the roof and waxed it.

[Matti R]

Climate control was all dead in my 66 when I got it. Thanks to great guide by CadillacTim, I got electrics more or less sorted and the blower works in second Automatic setting. Still lots of work with vacuum side. Somebody has painted all vacuum pipes with black paint under the hood and of course rubber pipes don`t like it. Steam boat works and power servo works. Great fun!

[Lexi]

New CLC member Scott Nellis and I hooked up yesterday and went for a ride in my Caddy. I also got to check out his beautiful '68 Fleetwood Brougham. Clay/Lexi

[jaxops]

Replaced the under-dashboard light bulb.  Sounds like "not a big deal" right?  Usually these simple tasks become "quests" very quickly trying to find things and then get them to work.  Amazingly, the light bulb replacement from communist China actually worked. 
A good day....so far!

[Lexi]

Yes, those not too big deal projects can quickly go south. Clay/Lexi

[hornetball]

Replaced the high blower relay.  Ahhhhhhhh, cold air ....

[Matti R]

My 66 was shifting 2->3 late at 45 mph since I bought it last year. Finally I decided to do something for it, and checked the governor first. It was looking very good and clean, and the valve was moving correct. Modulator was keeping the vacuum like it should. Then I noticed that the adjustment screw was completely missing, and the plunger was moving only with very strong vacuum. I replaced the modulator and now it is shifting perect, smooth and correct speed. Feels good!

[jwwseville60]

I let those rascal two friends of mine drive my 60 Eldo and my 59 flat top as well.
Now thats friendship!

[Mike Baillargeon #15848]

I was exercising the 1934 LaSalle today....pulled over to take some fall foliage shots....leaves aren't at peak yet, but close....

It was a nice day 68 and sunny....

Mike

[Piening2150]

Got my '61 on the road finally! First time faster than walking speed and further than my driveway! Was hoping to drive it to shows/cruises this summer. Better late than never I guess. Just a quick trip down the street to fill it up before winter. Hit a whopping 35 mph!

Stuff I've done since I got it July '21:
- ignition (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Pertronix, MSD coil)
- cooling system (radiator, thermostat, water pump, hoses, freeze plug)
- brakes (front/rear wheel cylinders, rubber hoses)
- fuel (sealed gas tank, new sender/hoses/filter)
- engine/carb (choke, return spring, valve cover gaskets, belts) *still needs final tuning
- drivetrain (trans filter/gasket, all u-joints, carrier bearing assy, output seal)
- fluids (trans, oil, coolant, diff, PS, brakes)
- Fixed power windows
- still don't have usable heat/AC, wipers, radio, seat motor

[Jamurray]

I replaced the rod bearings on number 1 cylinder on the rebuilt '41 engine I removed from my '40 because of lack of oil pressure. I thought the engine had seized, but once it was upside down on an engine stand - I got it to turn over just fine. On inspection, though, number 1 rod journal and its bearing looked a little raggedy.

I think I discovered why there was no oil  pressure. A rebuilt oil pump from Kanter has a shaft that reaches 5/32" higher than the one that was there. At first I thought that was enough to keep the oil pump drive shaft from engaging the slot in the oil pump drive coupling, but it's hard for me to believe just over 1/8th inch is enough make an oil pump drive happy. That shaft's male end should be at least 3/8ths of an inch into that oil pump drive coupling. Before I re-install the'41, I want to make dead certain the oil pump is being driven correctly.

Well, you asked, and I wish I could say I took it for a fall day spin to enjoy the scenery and its 150 happy horses under the hood, but all I did is stare down at its bottom end in the garage.

[Matti R]

Second evening in a row I am trying to get the stuck lifter out from 67 convertible. I was able to push it from underside because it is cyl #8. But it is not coming out. Tomorrow I will buy a pulling tool, hopefully it helps.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I would suggest you push it back down, and have a really good look at the bottom of the lifter to see if it has been belled out of shape by a bad canlobe.

Looking at the picture, it is hard to make out, but the lobe doesn't look nice and crisp at the edge.

I have had engines where the lifter base has been so damaged that it was impossible to extract in the normal way.   Had to remove the cam, and push the lifter downwards to get it out.

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

After working for a year and a half to get my 1941 Cadillac Series 63 road ready, I was able to use it for my daughter's wedding in June of this year. Shortly afterwards, because I was driving it more, the old radial tires that were on it started splitting. I lost 3 that way. Fortunately I was at home when it happened to all of them.

While I was waiting for the tire companies to get new bias ply tires in stock, I decided to address the underside of the car. I spent the last couple of months scraping , chiseling and sanding 81 years of grease and dirt as well as prepping the metal so that I can apply rust proof preventive paint and then chassis paint to the frame, the underside of the floor and fenders as well as certain parts. I'm hoping to have this work completed by the end of November.

Not a fun job when all you have is jack stands. It will be worth it when completed.

[Matti R]

I would suggest you push it back down, and have a really good look at the bottom of the lifter to see if it has been belled out of shape by a bad canlobe.

Looking at the picture, it is hard to make out, but the lobe doesn't look nice and crisp at the edge.

I have had engines where the lifter base has been so damaged that it was impossible to extract in the normal way.  Had to remove the cam, and push the lifter downwards to get it out.

Bruce.

I got the lifter out with proper puller. I put the new one in, Sealed Power brand, and there is quite strong knocking when running engine. It is not ticking but so loud knocking that I had to stop the engine. Maybe the new lifter is not working properly yet, but I hesitate to run the engine with such noise. I soaked it in oil before installing it. Engine has new oil inside.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Simply soaking the new lifter in oil will not fill it with oil, as it needs the cycling and oil pressure to fill the internals.

What was the condition of the one you pulled out?   Was it concave on the bottom?   Plus, what was the condition of the cam Lobe?

Bruce.