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New Fuel Pump Installed in my 68 CdV

Started by Steve W, November 27, 2022, 01:02:45 AM

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Steve W

Received the Spectra Premium Fuel Pump (Part #SP1106MP or B1106MP from AutoZone). Looks like the original (or at least like the one that's been in my car since I bought it 13 years ago) with the correct orientation for the fittings, so I proceeded with the install. After a bit of a struggle, I just decided to remove the power steering pump and bracket to get a clear shot at the fuel pump. Made it SO much easier! And while I was there, I replaced all the 5/16" rubber hose segments between the carb, the filter, the pump and the lines from the tank. Obviously, at some point, some mechanic decided that the line from the filter to the carb didn't need to be all steel, same goes for the return line and the main fuel line, but the worst part was the fitting that goes into the fuel pump. Apparently the said mechanic didn't have the proper flare nut wrench and decided to use...vice grips? Pliers? Whatever. Its pretty chewed up! I ended up having to use vice grips to tighten it enough to not leak! (That'll be the next thing on my list to replace!)Fuel pump slid right in, no alighnment issues at all. Put the power steering pump back in...and uh oh...the fuel lines were hitting the belts. Had to do a bunch of finagling to get everything lined up just right. It's kind of odd the way the factory ran the fuel filter and fuel lines, but with the original steel lines there, I'm assuming everything just kinda stayed put. But with the rubber lines, there's more flex...and more opportunities to get the clearances wrong!  I'm assuming I have the wrong fuel filter...and that's probably why they cut the steel lines and dodged-in the rubber lines. (The factory correct fuel filter is tough to find at a decent price.) So now I'm on the hunt for the proper steel fuel tubing from carb to filter, and filter to pump, and the correct filter! But, anyway, it all works! And I changed the oil and oil filter too! Took her for a good run today...came home, pulled into the garage...ahhhh..no more leak, no more strong gas smell!! Thanks for all the tips and advice! 
Steve Waddington
1968 Coupe deVille
North Hollywood, CA
CLC Member # 32866

The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day Steve,

Yes, that line from the pump to the carby is supposed to be steel, as there is no requirement for anything flexible in this area, as flexible parts relate to possible failure.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Steve W

Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 27, 2022, 01:51:16 AMG'day Steve,

Yes, that line from the pump to the carby is supposed to be steel, as there is no requirement for anything flexible in this area, as flexible parts relate to possible failure.

Bruce. >:D

I agree. But to clarify a bit, the line IS steel from the "carby" all the way to the front of the engine, till about 5" from the filter, then there's a 5" section of rubber fuel line connected to the steel line that comes out of the filter via a flare fitting. (I'm assuming that's because they couldn't, or didn't want to, find the proper filter. Same with the line that goes from the pump to the filter. The line exits the fuel pump via a flare-fitted steel line for a couple of inches, then there's the rubber fuel line that makes the rest of the connection to the filter. For the last few days Ive been trying to find the correct filter...no luck. 
Steve Waddington
1968 Coupe deVille
North Hollywood, CA
CLC Member # 32866

Highwayman68

The exact replacement filter is not available, however the Cad Company does have one that if functionally correct but had difference connections on it.

I drilled out the original style filter so the gas would simply pass through and added an inline filter back by the tank where it can easily be changed but is hard to notice so every thing "seems" original.
1968 Fleetwood Purchased in 1981

Steve W

Quote from: Highwayman68 on November 27, 2022, 09:48:39 PMThe exact replacement filter is not available, however the Cad Company does have one that if functionally correct but had difference connections on it.

I drilled out the original style filter so the gas would simply pass through and added an inline filter back by the tank where it can easily be changed but is hard to notice so every thing "seems" original.
Thanks. I just looked at that. Wix has one that looks just like it, and AC delco does too. There are a bunch that I can make work...like the one that's on my car already. I was just hoping that someday I could assemble the filter and steel lines and return it to original...but, what do I do next time it needs to be changed? LOL! So I guess I'll just keep it the way it is and get a couple of those Wix type filters.
Steve Waddington
1968 Coupe deVille
North Hollywood, CA
CLC Member # 32866

Steve W

Update: well, the Wix filter LOOKS like it should work, and it does have the return, but there is no way to get both rubber lines on the two outlets. Obviously made for cars that utilize much thinner fuel lines.
So, I'm back to square one!
Steve Waddington
1968 Coupe deVille
North Hollywood, CA
CLC Member # 32866

fishnjim

You can make those steel lines if you have a good flare tool and bender.  They sell small sections of brake line by length at the parts store and can use one end already flared, cut to size and go.   
The male flare nuts are easy to round if they get stuck/cross threaded/overtightened.  I suspect they put an open end on it and it sprung and rounded.  Then they had to use grippers.  Need a tube wrench as noted - a luxury item!  Overtightening will lead to leaks and flares have to be "soft" to seal.  Taking off and on a lot will either damage the surface or work harden the steel.  The body material is not as hard can deform. 
The only rubber needed is between the supply line and the engine/pump intake.  That's for vibration isolation and allow engine movement. 
It's too easy to go get a few bucks worth of fuel hose and a few clamps and butcher what someone had to design.  My whole fuel line was ran in rubber from the tank forward, when I got it, not what you bargain for.  Very unsafe.  Human frailty => laziness.   Temporary becomes permanent.
I don't know what filter is on it, but there's a solution I'm sure.  I'd have to research the part catalogs for the OEM part number.  Can always use a disposable inline as noted until you find the holy grail.  Some of those come with flare end fittings.  Keep at it.

Chopper1942

The best flare to use with rubber hose is an ISO bubble flare.  It has no sharp edges that can cut into the hose.

Absolutely Must be Done!  Double flare all the compression flares.  Check the flares after you make them for any cracks in the flare. Do not overtighten.

Wrap the brass fittings in the fuel pump with teflon tape before you install them. With the threads on the fitting facing you, make a couple of wraps clockwise around the threads and install in the pump. Again, do not overtighten.  The teflon tape seals the threads.