1941 Series 63 rust proof and repair

[J. Russo]

I've been working the last few months rustproofing the underside and inside of my Series 63.

I had some corrosion on the floor on the driver side.

I cleaned the metal as best I could and used Por-15 rustproof preventer over the metal.

For the floor repair, I used Por-15 power mesh fiberglass covered with the rust preventive paint and top coated with Bill Hirsch Chassis paint.

Next step is to cover the floor with Dynamat sound proof and heat shield material. I'll also use the sound proof material under the roof and on the inside of the doors.

[Artistic Precision]

I hate POR. Ive never seen it have good adhesion properties. Ive seen it easily lift and peel from many vehicles. I like naval jelly. It dissolves rust and wipes off with water. Then sand and prime. Can be found easily.

[fishnjim]

Adhesion is subject to how well the surface was prepped and how the material reacts.  Some compounds continue to cure over time and will shrink, crack, and pull away regardless, if prepped right.  Flexing is another issue.  "Oil canning" can separate the two surfaces over time, too.
If one's not replacing metal, it's considered a "temporary" repair.   Both sides of the metal need to be coated in these cases to prolong the repair, arrest the corrosion.  A flexible sealant is best.       
Depends on the use of the vehicle and condition how best to proceed in these cases.
Glad to see it's being conserved at any rate.   Keep it running.   

[J. Russo]

I appreciate the input.