Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Well that is all stripped.  I will start pushing out bushings tomorrow.

One of the upper A arm bolts decided to strip all threads rather then come loose.  That was a little fun. 
 

[Clewisiii]

Looks like I will be able to reuse most the bushings and ball joints if I choose to. 

The only ones I will not be able to use are upper A Arm.  The bushings get damaged with the way you must press them out.  And the ball joint has an anti rotation flange on it that prevents me from fixturing it to press out.  I may have to cut the tops to press them out.  Still a success in my book however.

   

[Cadman-iac]

Has anyone found a better way to compress the front springs.  A 5/8 rod through the shock mount is the best I have found.

  There is an actual spring compressor made specifically for these coil springs. It's got twin hooks on both ends that are unequal in length so that the center piece can sit level. Then the threaded shaft passes through the bottom one and threads into the top one.
If you use one, just be sure to keep the threads clean and lubricated. Also you should place the hooks as close to the ends of the springs as possible in order to have enough thread to compress the spring far enough, and have the hooks offset by 90 degrees to keep the spring from bowing out to the side. If you need it, I can post a picture of mine for an example.
  The problem with using a piece of all-thread is the strength of it. I don't believe that you can get a piece that is a grade 8. From what I've heard, most all-thread is only a grade 2, much too weak for this. I guess if you use a big enough diameter, it might not be as bad, but you're limited by the hole size in the frame for your shock.
Rick

[Clewisiii]

There is an actual spring compressor made specifically for these coil springs. It's got twin hooks on both ends that are unequal in length so that the center piece can sit level. Then the threaded shaft passes through the bottom one and threads into the top one.
If you use one, just be sure to keep the threads clean and lubricated. Also you should place the hooks as close to the ends of the springs as possible in order to have enough thread to compress the spring far enough, and have the hooks offset by 90 degrees to keep the spring from bowing out to the side. If you need it, I can post a picture of mine for an example.
  The problem with using a piece of all-thread is the strength of it. I don't believe that you can get a piece that is a grade 8. From what I've heard, most all-thread is only a grade 2, much too weak for this. I guess if you use a big enough diameter, it might not be as bad, but you're limited by the hole size in the frame for your shock.
Rick

I have a set of those.  But due to the cavity the spring sits in not enough coil links are exposed to compress it. 

[Clewisiii]

Only like 3 or 4 coils are visible. 

[Cadman-iac]

  That's true for most vehicles. What I've had to do is dismantle the tool and fish the top hook set up through the spring, then position it on the highest loop of coil possible, then fish the lower hook set up into place, positioning it on the lowest loop of coil as possible, and then run the threaded shaft up through the bottom hook set and thread it into the upper hook set. Just be sure that the hook sets are offset by 90 degrees so your spring doesn't want to bow outward.
  (I've had to use a screwdriver to push the hooks into place on the coil loops because there's just no other way to reach into the area you're working in. You also don't want to put the hooks too far apart because you only have so much threaded shaft to work with. If you're trying to remove the spring that's still in the suspension and under load,remember that you will have to have enough thread left once the spring is removed to be able to unload the tension on the spring in order to get the tool out and use it on the other side. If you position the hooks too far apart before you put the shaft in, you've got to remember that the unloaded spring will be a lot longer than the installed length, and you don't want to run out of threads before the spring runs out of load, or it's gonna go flying. Where the hooks usually end up is around two to three loops from the top due to clearance issues with the frame, and about the same on the bottom with clearance around the lower control arm).
  Here's the tool I've got just for reference.
The hook set near the hex drive end is not threaded so that the shaft can be run through to the other set and threaded. If you've got one, then you already know that though. I mentioned it for anyone else that has not had the headache of using one of these before.

Rick

P.S. For those of you who don't have one or these, are looking to buy one, or are going to rent one for this job, please make sure that you are getting one made in the USA. The brands I've got are KD Tools, (which I believe to be the best one), and a Cal Tool unit, both made in the USA. The Chinese ones I wouldn't trust as far as I could throw it.

[Clewisiii]

Thinking about how soon it will be until I can test fire my engine.  A few things I want to get.

AMS oil for break in
Timing light
Voltage regulator
Condensers
Radiator needs to get finished soon

I know nothing about the distributor, I need someone to go through it or a really good tutorial.

The plan is to start it the week of June 19th. My Birthday. I know a few of you will be at Grand National that week so I will need to collect my materials and questions in advance

[Clewisiii]

The last thing to separate are the upper A arm ball joints. I really think I will need to cut off the anti rotation flanges to push them out.  I will need to cut off and replace these bumpers as well.


All the rest of the parts are ready for blaster. I will load up my trailer Thursday and drop off on Friday. 


Then I need to start cleaning and organizing all the little pieces I am not shipping out. 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Thinking about how soon it will be until I can test fire my engine.  A few things I want to get.........
The plan is to start it the week of June 19th. My Birthday. I know a few of you will be at Grand National that week so I will need to collect my materials and questions in advance

I would not be advising the test starting of any engine that has been rebuilt, just to see and hear it running, and then put it aside for possibly years.

Running it without getting it up to proper operating temperature, and performing all the running-in procedures will not allow the Cylinder Heads to settle in and completely perform their capacity to seal, and stay sealed.

I rebuilt a '59 Thunderbird years ago, and did just that.   Fired it up, and ran it for a short time.   Then the owner wanted a complete nut and bolt restoration on the car, so the engine sat around.   When I finally got it going, it wasn't long before the head gaskets failed, and water got into the cylinders.

When I removed the Heads, they simply fell off, unlike normal heads that need a bit of levering because the gaskets had worked and completed their intended sealing.

An easy fix, BUT, not in a completely repainted, rebuilt car where one had to lean over the fresh paint on the Fenders.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Well once I know the engine is running the body is getting the firewall painted and going back on the frame perminently.  The paint shop wants the car drivable so I must get it to that point.  It will be 2 years for me to save the money for paint.  But I will be able to get a seat in it and the steering column from my parts car. 

[Clewisiii]

The truck and trailer is loaded up to take this to the sand blaster and powdercoater.

         

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

One matter to remember when reassembling the chassis is that the Powder Coating will slightly decrease the diameter of the holes, and vice verca the OD of the shafts, making the pressings-in of the bushes just that little bit tighter.   Not much, but a little.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

The only ones I am worried about are the trailing arms and yoke over rear end.  Those ones flex the most during pressing

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

You are using the inserts to stop the flexing?

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

You are using the inserts to stop the flexing?

Bruce.

Well I have been using sockets as inserts.  I have more sizes there.

[Clewisiii]

I picked up my exhaust manifolds from West Michigan Cerokote. 

They look nice.  Now I need to buy new bolts to install. The originals did not survive disassembly

Notice the web in this LH manifold.  This is a replacement I bought.  The part number is the same for 61-64 but the early ones did not have this web. And they cracked in this location.  So all is 61-62 people are buying up the parts from 63-64.

Here is my original.
 

[Clewisiii]

I decided to remove my rear disc brake conversion and go back to drums.  Opening up the original cylinders and a mess falls out.  I will have to decide if these will be rebuildable. 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

If you cannot purchase new ones, then they can be rebuilt by a good engineering shop.  They will bore out and insert Stainless Steel Sleeves.

As for pressing in the bushings, the sockets can be used for the outside pressing Mandrel, but you need to support the area that is between the two sides.   Here, "U" Shaped steel pieces need to be used to stop the crushing.

Bruce.

[David King (kz78hy)]

Now I need to buy new bolts to install. The originals did not survive disassembly

I have new, correct bolts with undersize heads, let me know if want a set.

[Clewisiii]

If you cannot purchase new ones, then they can be rebuilt by a good engineering shop.  They will bore out and insert Stainless Steel Sleeves.

As for pressing in the bushings, the sockets can be used for the outside pressing Mandrel, but you need to support the area that is between the two sides.  Here, "U" Shaped steel pieces need to be used to stop the crushing.

Bruce.

Tassie that is what I have been doing.  Four sockets around the bushing on the inside.  I have gathered up from my boxes various brands to find the right height for each cavity