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#1
General Discussion / Re: 1955 battery removal
Last post by Cadillac Jack 82 - Today at 04:24:57 PM
Remove connections, lift up the right-hand side of the battery, pull out.  Its heavy as all get out but you'll get it out.
#2
Thanks for the replies.
My build sheet states the Outlet Code as 381629.
I hope this helps.

Jason, no luck I'm afraid as I don't have the Owners Protection Manual. I have got a copy of an Owners Manual for this model but it did not come with the car, as I bought it on line from a supplier.
#3
If you didn't check for straightness I'm betting that is going to be where a lot of your problems are.  If you spend a half hour making sure the covers are straight that will likely help a lot.  A trick I have seen lately for those that don't have a surface plate is using the table of larger woodworking tools like a table saw or planer.  Lots of guys have those in their wood shops and are plenty flat for this sort of thing.

I have heard of the weatherstripping trick too.  Usually used to 'glue' the gasket to which ever side makes the most sense, often the cover.   Main reason that was done is so the gasket could be reused after it was removed for valve adjustments or head bolt re torques after a rebuild. 
#4
Hopefully Bruce or who ever it was will be along soon to talk about or point you to the thread where they were replacing the in tank pump with something more modern.  I'm almost positive they were doing to to keep the EFI going and it wasn't a perfect solution but like I said maybe a lower pressure pump would be a closer fit. 

If in tank isn't practical then hopefully there were pics of the sending unit so you can get an idea what will be needed to bypass the pump if that is decided to be the best route.  Also probably Bruce will know if the fuel pump cam is still in these engines.  I can't remember is the olds just a bolt on the front of the cam unit like the big cads?  If a mech can be bolted on doing that and bypassing the pump in the tank is likely the best route.  Eliminates other issues like how you are controlling the pump.

I have been screwing around with 'aftermarket' EFI for close to 30 years now and I would say about 73.29457% of the issues many people have are related to inline electric pumps.  With a carb you get a slight buffer because of the float bowl but if you loose prime you are still in trouble just a few seconds later than you would be with EFI.   
#5
I just want to make sure of something related to installing the sleeve.

The sleeve that matches my seal is 11/16 long and the shaft length is 7/8.

The sales person I talked with had no answer.

I watched a few videos and they all show tapping the sleeve until it stops at the end of the shaft.

In my case the area I want to cover is closer to the beginning of the shaft. If I tap it in as far as it will go it'll pass the damaged area.

Is it ok that the sleeve isn't tapped all the way on the shaft?

The yoke I'm referring to is in the previous comments.
#6
Thanks guys for the advice.  I guess I'll bite the bullet and drop the tank.  I need to find a replacement in-tank pump for my Seville.

There's only 2 gallons of gas in the tank.  I had previously siphoned most of the gas out of it when I thought I would have to drop the tank originally -- before I realized that my original problem was electrical.  I had put a couple of gallons back in so that I could get it started and let it idle a while after I fixed it.  I was on my way to the gas station when it died...
#7
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 6 volt Group 2 batteries
Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 02:47:36 PM
Did someone maybe mention 3d printing battery cases?  Was it in one of our 3d printing threads or a battery thread?   Seems like a good application for 3d printing and would just fit many of the printers.  Won't likely get you show quality but as far as not standing out in a driver car maybe a perfect option?
#8
I too would drop the tank.  Pretty much every pump design but the engine mounted mechanical pumps suck at sucking so if you have to use one you want to do everything possible to give it the best chance of working.  Drawing through another pump even if its designed to do that with minimal drag is still going to cause some drag.  What if what killed it is some debris jammed in it?

If you are running a carb why not install a mechanical pump?  Or did they do something like not install the cam or tap the holes on these things?

If you are staying with electric I think I would pick up a pump for one of the TBI engines and fit it to the existing sending unit.  Seems like some of our resident EFI guys was working on fitting a single high pressure pump for the EFI?  Maybe they can share what issues they ran into so you could figure out if the TBI pump would still have those issues.  TBI's only ran at 13psi so maybe a smaller pump than ones that could do 30+?  Probably very similar to whats in there now since it was just being used as a lift pump. 
#9
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 6 volt Group 2 batteries
Last post by conyankee2 - Today at 02:42:38 PM
I would also love to see pictures of the 2 Optimas running in parallel setup!

I've been running an Optima red top for 12 years now and just tested it both at a local auto parts store, as well as on 2 of my handheld battery testers (digital and carbon pile). All results were the battery is in 'good condition'. When not driving I religiously disconnect the positive lead, and hook it up to a 5amp battery tender.

Coincidentally, I've been looking for information about what the OEM battery looked like for my 1947. According to the Authenticity Manual 2nd edition Summer 2021, page III-20 it says all 1942 - 1947 batteries were a 6 volt Delco type 17K3W of 115-ampere hour capacity (modern equivalent Group 2). Specifically, that "the battery has 3 cells each topped with a black cap as shown in the photo below". This is the only reference I can find to the black caps as it specifically relates to a 47 OEM Cadillac battery. Does anyone else have info / photos?

I ask because for authenticity purposes I would like to purchase an authentic/period correct-looking battery, but most I've found specific to Cadillac have yellow tops (see picture below). I would assume the authenticity manual is correct, but just find it odd I can't find any other corroborating information online (or perhaps I just haven't looked hard enough). Any info would be greatly appreciated!

#10
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 6 volt Group 2 batteries
Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 02:34:39 PM
Glad someone brought up the Group 2 vs GC2.  I was wondering about that since that is what I see in stock everywhere and the few things I have dealt with (tractors) used likely because space didn't tend to be a problem. 

For the person that is running the parallel ones how did you do the cables/connections?  Custom cables or did you find something for heavy equipment that worked well?

The issue with a weak or dead optima is they will suck every amp of juice you give them which can often overload and or damage what ever you are using to try and charge them.  This could be your gen/alternator if you got it started but it was still pretty weak or your charger. 

Many of the 'smart' chargers today will just overload an shut off.  I found if all you have is a charger available to you set it for its lowest setting, ideally under 2 amps and let it go like that as long as possible.  At some point it will be charged enough that you can switch it to a higher mode and it will do fine.  Some chargers will even trip out or not work that low.

What they say the proper process to revive one is is to get a similar size capacity wise battery fully charged and connect them with a good set of jumper cables.  You can then connect the charger to both batteries or wait for them to equalize then charge one at a time.  The idea is the good battery can supply the 100's of amps it takes to partially recover.

As long as you are aware of that characteristic I really didn't have a huge problem living with them and its not why I quit using them in the normal 12v form for fairly normal applications.  The small form factor of the 6v may be worth the extra hassle if I was to have something 6v.