Radiator removal question 67 Eldorado

[Hammond B-3]

Should be pretty straight forward, but the shop manual says to disconnect A/C compressor if so equipped.  Is that necessary if the line to the condenser runs beside the radiator rather than over like the diagram in the manual?

[Hammond B-3]

    Diagram

[79 Eldorado]

GM tries to design so you don't need to "break-into" a second system when it comes to AC and engine cooling. I've never done a '67 Eldorado radiator but it doesn't look like you need to open the AC system from your photo.

I would start removing what you know needs to be removed. The answer to your question will eventually become clear...my money is on not necessary to open the AC system.

Scott

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I notice that the diagram shows the AC hose running over the top of the radiator, so in that case, it looks like it should be removed.

But your picture shows it clearly running at the side of the end rank, so it could be that your car has had a modification, or the factory did a mid-model change.

You have to remember that these Shop Manuals were designed, printed and made available at the same time as the new model was released.

The change could be mentioned in the Serviceman's publications, which are issued at times when alterations are made to production.

Bruce.

[67 Cadillac]

I took the radiator out of my 67 Eldorado without having to do anything related to the A/C. Just took off the hoses and clamps holding the radiator in place.

[79 Eldorado]

I looked back at the images and a couple of things I noticed:
-Service manual image: shows the straightest compressor discharge line I've ever seen. Normally there is extra length by design so something like engine rock and vibration don't destroy something like the condenser.
-Service manual image: I was shocked when I saw how close the compressor clutch area is to the radiator. Wow!
-Actual photo: That's a hose screw clamp on the AC discharge hose. That wasn't the factory solution in 1967 was it? By 1968 it wasn't. That would say the AC discharge hose was changed but the routing doesn't necessarily look wrong because it seems there's a place where it should go through. Maybe Jeff could comment regarding what his looked like.

Last point is radiators can be rocked and AC suction discharge assemblies are hoses so even if the hose was going over the corner of the radiator a combination of rotating the radiator and unbolting the compressor brackets, without opening the system, seems like it would have been preferred and likely possible even if the hose was running as shown in the Service manual image.

Scott

[Hammond B-3]

The manual actually states not to undo any lines just move the compressor. The manual can be rather vague at times leaving more questions than answers for a novice such as myself. Thanks for the help guys.

Here's what I'm working on.

[67 Cadillac]

Nice car!! I just had my radiator re cored so I removed it myself and took it to the rad shop. I didn't look at my shop manual before I tackled the job. If I remember correctly I detached the cooling tubes for the transmission as well as the heater hoses and the radiator hoses then opened the pepcock and drained the coolant. I removed the clamps holding the radiator in place then slid a sheet of cardboard between the radiator and the fan to protect the rad. I double checked that everything was disconnected then carefully lifted the radiator straight up and out. I am sure that I didn't move the compressor. Hope this makes sense.

[79 Eldorado]

Hammond,
It's getting harder to find Cu-Br radiators. I personally like to stay with the original style. There was another thread recently on this site where someone did successfully find a place which could still re-core the original. If you are tempted to go to an alternative like an aluminum I would strongly suggest you keep your original because a re-core is impossible without your original tanks. Places which have the ability to re-core are getting harder to find. One other advantage of a re-core is you keep your original oil coolers; difficult to know what you get with a replacement. That other thread used a place called Chicago Radiator but I got the impression it was local to them. He mentioned $600 but if they did a good job it was worth it. Copper prices are high and that's what drove the move to aluminum radiators. By the time Cu-Br were being phased out by GM (late 80's) the gauge was really thinned out which really impacted durability. The air fins/centers where extremely thin and couldn't hold up to corrosion. I had one severely corrode in around a year to the point I was having cooling issues (didn't leak but the air centers had no integrity; think of a sugar cookie). Modine at the time was still making a very nice replacement core with proper gauge. So hopefully paying as much as they want now the cores for the re-core are a high quality part. If you go that route you may want to ask the place you're working with.

VERY good tip by Jeff suggesting the cardboard. The last thing you want to do is damage the radiator especially when putting the new on in. From the photo you posted things are tight.

Scott

[Hammond B-3]

Thanks very much for all that info Scott. I took it to Borgen Radiator in Minneapolis today. They probably are my best bet in this area. It'll get tested and see what it needs. Ideally I hope it can be used I think it's not too bad. Some guys say (with general automotive knowledge) say just slap one of these aluminum ones in there "they cool better." It doesn't seem that easy with this car.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Some guys say (with general automotive knowledge) say just slap one of these aluminum ones in there "they cool better." It doesn't seem that easy with this car. 

Granted that Aluminium might cool better, but not when it comes to the overall physical dimensions.

It has been found that an Aluminium Radiator needs to be larger in size to perform the same as a Copper/Brass one, and the car makers only make the area for a radiator the size that in needs to be.   No larger and no smaller.

Bruce.

[bcroe]

I have changed engines without disconnecting the AC system, and
even removed AC at the yard and taken it home without discharging
it.  A little creativity should get the job done, the manual only
covers the most dumbed down method.  good luck, Bruce Roe