What is your electric fuel pump of choice?

Started by Bill Caddyshack, December 04, 2013, 05:52:11 AM

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Bill Caddyshack

Thinking about installing an electric fuel pump in several of my 1950s Cadillacs. Summit Racing is suggesting a Carter P4070. Have read some posts that this is a good pump, but noisy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070/overview/

I am also planning to install a relay, a cutoff switch and an inertia switch.

Anyone like another fuel pump?

joeceretti

I have, essentially, the same pump but in a 6v version. While not silent it certainly isn't what I would consider noisy. When powered on I can just barely hear the difference in the pressure as the float/needle valve stops the fuel from flowing further so I know when to start cranking. As soon as the engine is running I can no longer hear the pump.

It can work as a vacuum pump if needed so you don't have to install it by the tank. It can be installed on the firewall if that's what you prefer. Also, when shut off it allows the existing mechanical pump to flow the fuel through it eliminating the need for a bypass and check valve. Just my experience, your experience may be quite different.  :D

Bill Caddyshack

Quote from: Joe Ceretti on December 04, 2013, 06:19:37 AM
I have, essentially, the same pump but in a 6v version. While not silent it certainly isn't what I would consider noisy. When powered on I can just barely hear the difference in the pressure as the float/needle valve stops the fuel from flowing further so I know when to start cranking.  :D

I find the length of time an electric fuel pump needs to run is the amount of time it takes to say "Detroit is the Capital of the World" twice! ;D  ;D

Did you disable the mechanical pump? If not, will the electric pump push through it ok? I have some high powered amps behind the seats and can get "ignition on" power there. Don't need a relay, but I am installing an inertia/crash switch to disable the pump if needed. Maybe a toggle switch also.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fuel-pump-inertia-switch-wells-vehicle-electronics_10288584-p?searchTerm=inertia+switch


LeRoy DeVol

When I installed a electric fuel pump on my car the sound of the pump was very loud. I got 2 rubber 1/4" mounts & installed them between the pump & the frame & the noise went away. Make sure you install a ground wire from the pump to the frame.

Lee DeVol

joeceretti

On those carter pumps the casing is isolated and doesn't need a ground to run. There are two terminals (+/-) on the bottom and two push on (like spark plug 90 degree boots) are provided. Also, they come with a mounting bracket that can be rotated to orient the in and out lines easily. The bracket has three rubber grommets and the pump has three studs. This is the body pump isolation needed to keep it from resonating into the interior.

Bill Ingler #7799

Joe: I am a little confused on your last posting on the Carter pump when you say the casing is isolated on the Carter pumps so it does not need a ground to run. Please explain how this pump works with no ground and why then does it have a plus and minus posts on the pump. I have used this type of Carter pumps on many Cadillac's and the only real problem you might have is if the pump is not grounded following the same polarity as the battery. If you have a positive ground car and ground that pump from the negative post on the pump, that pump will work in reverse.  Bill

joeceretti

#6
The casing is not connected to the drive motor. On the base there are two terminals marked + and -. since this era of car is a positive ground I connected the + to the body and the - to the ignition wire. I also put a fuse on the + line. I don't see the point of grounding the pump casing.

The car and pump are at a a garage away from my house so I can't post a photo right now but if needed tomorrow I can.

I should have stated that the casing does not need a ground. The + terminal, or - if in a - ground system, the - terminal needs a ground, not the casing.

joeceretti

#7
Here is a quick drawing I made showing what I am referring to. Any ground to the casing would be not needed. In the package the wiring push on boots are not red or black. they are both black, but the pump has clearly marked + and - terminals. I added the red and green for reference only.

joeceretti

#8
Coincidentally, I have the box for the pump I am using sitting right next to me. Useful because it has the part # for the 6v pump. I paid $90 for it here in Canada. I also added a Edelbrock 40 micron pre filter at the same time.

joeceretti

Here is a shot of the part# of the filter. Also stored with the pump box. I don't recall the cost for this but it was not expensive. I selected it because I can clean it and don't have to buy a new element.

Bill Caddyshack

Joe, it seems it would be useless to ground the case, but very important to hook a ground wire to one of th + - terminals and the other terminal to the hot wire. This would give a complete circuit.

Also important to have rubber mounts or grommets to insulate the sound from the car body.

joeceretti

Not shown in the drawing are the three rubber mounting grommets that came included in my package. You'd think I worked for Carter. hahah