Neutral safety switch

Cesar091665 · April 28, 2018, 03:31:54 PM

Good afternoon everyone.
I'm having trouble getting my '71 Eldorado going. When I turn the ignition key all the way, I get nothing, not a click or anything, yet all the light, radio, turn signals work. I installed a new starter and all new distributor parts including coil. I have power to all the wires to the starter. I think it might be the neutral safety switch. I connected the 2 wires going to the safety switch trying to by pass it, but still nothing. Not sure if that's the right way to by pass the switch. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas where should I look or try next?

thanks in advance for the help.

Bobby B · April 28, 2018, 03:38:34 PM

RCC,
Yes, Putting the 2 wires together from the NSS would bypass it. Are you sure you put the wire from your key switch on the correct starter relay/solenoid terminal? Usually there's a few on there because sometimes they carry power to other items thru the relay/solenoid. Don't have your schematic in front of me.
Bobby

Cesar091665 · April 28, 2018, 10:46:36 PM

Bobby, I did make sure the wires are correct at the starter. Prior to this happening, the eng was cranking but wouldn't start. It seem I was not getting a spark. After cranking the eng several times trying to get it started, it just quit cranking. Which is were I am now.

Bobby B · April 28, 2018, 11:01:03 PM

Make sure you have power to the coil with the key in the "on" position. How's your battery now that you've cranked the hell out of it? I would also test the coil. I've gotten them bad right out of the box. Is the wire going to your distributor definitely hooked up? Is the condenser good and also screwed down tight? Seems like something minor is being overlooked....
Bobby

Scot Minesinger · April 28, 2018, 11:32:13 PM

If you think it is the neutral safety switch (maybe out of adjustment) - with foot on brake and key in the start position, slide the selector to right thru the gears until it starts cranking. I have had to start my Caddy once in drive and it was fine with foot on brake.

TJ Hopland · April 29, 2018, 08:27:40 AM

What often happens to the neutral switch is the section with the electrical contacts in it separates from the main body.

Jumping the wires should eliminate the switch, did you get the correct wires? The back up lights are also on that switch so maybe you had the wrong pair of wires?

Are you sure you got the wires correct on the starter? Maybe you swapped I and S when you were checking them or didn't you have them off? Although I would think if you did that it would try and crank any time the key was on.

I don't remember what all a 71 had for lights and buzzers but do any of the lights or buzzers change state when you turn the key from run to start? There should be some changes there even if the engine doesn't crank. I'm wondering if maybe the ignition switch went bad or slipped out of adjustment or something broke in the steering column? Does the key feel totally normal? Tried it tilting the steering wheel in different positions assuming its got tilt? The key turns a rack n pinion sort of arrangement that connects to a rod that has that pivot joint in it if its a tilt. The actual ignition switch mounts to the top right of the steering column just behind the dash. Its in slotted holes so if it got loose maybe it slid so its not being pushed far enough or something else went wrong in the linkage so its not being pushed far enough.

Any signs that there was ever an aftermarket security system on it? Was the factory security an option in 71? And did that have an ignition start disable? One of my 73 had it and it wasn't obvious it was there.

Cesar091665 · April 29, 2018, 12:58:23 PM

Thanks guys. So here's what I've done so far. I installed a new coil, checked power coming out of both terminals. Installed new condensers, points, rotor, cap, wires and plugs. The battery is fully charged at 12.50, The starter wires are in correct positions and I checked power at the starter terminals. I bypassed the NSS and verified power with switch on and cranking going to both wires. I Adjusted the NSS and the back up light come on when reverse is engaged. But still, when I turn the ignition switch to crank, I get absolutely noting, not a click or anything. AS far as I know, there's no security system on the car. The car had been starting fine, I drove it 2 months ago, then I parked it because one of the rear brakes failed. When I went to start it to work on it last weekend, that's when it wouldn't start. It would crank just fine, but wouldn't start. After checking several things, spraying starting fluid in it and cranking it trying to get it going, nothing, finally the battery started to get low, I connected my jumper box, cranked twice more and then it quit, installed a fully charged battery but now it won't crank or even click. That's why I'm stunt!

Bobby B · April 29, 2018, 01:05:22 PM

Cesar,
Make a wire jumper from your starter solenoid switch lead and tap it on the battery positive terminal and see if your starter engages. They make a handheld switch for this. Or you can just jump from your starter positive feed and tap it onto the solenoid, to see if the starter engages. Just make sure the car is in Park and/or on jack stands. If you leave the key out, it won't start anyway. It's just to see if you have something broken in the circuit. If you put the key in the 'run" position, it should start. Recommend doing it while NOT under the car....
Bobby

Cesar091665 · April 29, 2018, 01:37:05 PM

Thanks Bobby, I'll try that next. I'm also going to check the column selector switch as TJ recommended. I'm almost thinking it's ignition switch related, but not discarding other possibilities. I really appreciate all your guys suggestions and ideas.

I'm sure you guys understand the frustration of thinking you've checked everything there is to check and still not been able to get it going, lol.

But if it was running before it should run again.

Bobby B · April 29, 2018, 01:54:47 PM

Quote from: Cesar091665 on April 29, 2018, 01:37:05 PM
Thanks Bobby, I'll try that next. I'm also going to check the column selector switch as TJ recommended. I'm almost thinking it's ignition switch related, but not discarding other possibilities. I really appreciate all your guys suggestions and ideas. I'm sure you guys understand the frustration of thinking you've checked everything there is to check and still not been able to get it going, lol. But if it was running before it should run again.

Eliminate the starter first. If that's good, you have one major thing out of the picture. Then, I would check to see if you have 12 Volts at the solenoid when a helper tries to put the key into the "Start" position. A test probe, light, or meter will tell you. Then you know you have a break or loose connection from the ignition switch wire when it's on it's path down to the starter. It's not brain surgery, just the process of elimination. And you DID check all of your fuses? I would pull your ignition fuse out even if it looked good and check it for continuity within the fuse. This is a simple circuit. You'll find it quickly.....
Bobby

Cesar091665 · April 29, 2018, 05:00:28 PM

Ok, thanks Bobby, TJ and all who helped! I got the eng. to crank! Yay!

But it appears I still don't have a spark!

(that's what started the other problem form over cranking I think) I checked the wires at the coil and I have power to both. I then followed the wire into the distributor, took the cap off and checked for power at the connection inside the distributor and then again at the points, and the test light came on at every point. With another test light I checked for spark at a plug while cranking eng. Nothing. Thinking of a jumped timing chain I rotated the distributor on both directions while someone was cranking the eng. looking for a spark, but again nothing. The other thing I'm considering is if the gap on the points is too large. but without the eng running I cant check the dwell. Any ideas about this?

Bobby B · April 29, 2018, 05:34:30 PM

Check the resistance of your coil. I would substitute another in there just to be sure. Coils are junk today. Cap and rotor match? Is it all making good contact? Check your high tension lead for resistance and continuity. Good grounds at the distributor/ block? Gotta be something simple.
Bobby

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Neutral safety switch