Autronic-Eye amplifier id ???

[J. Gomez]

Jose, only the Brougham has the amplifier in the trunk; this is really a special car. The '56 Biarritz has it in the engine compartment.

Roger,

Good to know..!

Well if the amplifier is in the trunk on the ’57 Brougham it would probably have a longer hardness as you can see on the pictures above the amplifier I’ve posted has a shorter hardness to the power relay, just guessing.   

Thanks, 

[J. Gomez]

Thanks Jose, yes it is a 6V vibrator and I replaced it with a solid state version. I think I need to check the voltage coming from it. Phil

Phil,

Be "VERY CAREFULL" around the inside of the amplifier there could be high DC voltage in the 700-1000V DC at the main wire going to the photocell (the one inside the shielded cable) at the main connector.   

There should be around 130V AC between the contacts at the vibrator going to the transformer. However the frequency would be around 117-120Hz not your normal household AC of 60Hz so some digital voltmeters would go crazy trying to measure the AC voltage at that location. 

Good luck..!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Well if the amplifier is in the trunk on the ’57 Brougham it would probably have a longer hardness as you can see on the pictures above the amplifier I’ve posted has a shorter hardness to the power relay, just guessing.   

I don't remember. I just know that I disconnected the amplifier in the trunk compartment.
You probably know that the amplifier from 1955 to 1958 have the same part number (Gr. 53.0240, #5946698); however, for the '57-'58 Brougham models, there is a specific part number according to the Brougham parts list.

[bcroe]

. The good thing is the same type of vibrator was used for these ’53-’58 a 6V type. I know there are 6V vibrator in the market today specifically market for radios as either positive or negative and with either three or four prongs.

I’m not sure how these are made/designed so I chose to make my own and placing the new board on the same can from the old ones.   

So you replaced the mechanical vibrator guts with an electronic
circuit board of your design?  Bruce Roe

[J. Gomez]

So you replaced the mechanical vibrator guts with an electronic
circuit board of your design?  Bruce Roe

Bruce,

That would be correct, I used a CD4047 which provides a + and â€" pulse to drive two MOSFETs connected to the transformer primary winding. MOSFETs are best suitable for this application than transistors since transistors are just either on or off while MOSFETs provides a small time transition between for the on or off mimicking the old electro-mechanical vibrator.

The board fit perfectly inside the old can and just padded the area with cell foam; there was no need to heat sink the MOSFET. I made these for both the Autronic-Eye 6v 4-prong and the radios 12v 3-prong vibrators.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I had to pick-up the seat bottoms from my '72 de Ville and transport them to my store room, I removed the amplifier from the Brougham. The pictures:
The location into the trunk; the id label and the bottom of the amplifier with the short wiring.

[J. Gomez]

As I had to pick-up the seat bottoms from my '72 de Ville and transport them to my store room, I removed the amplifier from the Brougham. The pictures:
The location into the trunk; the id label and the bottom of the amplifier with the short wiring.

Roger,

Thanks for the pictures..!

I do see these units are a bit different as you mention above, the chassis have a curvature which shorten the mounting holes versus the standard ones. I also notice the wiring hardness connector and the cover plate for the rubber weather boot w/mounting screws do look similar to the ones on my side, so I could safely assume the ones I have with the same cover and w/mounting screws are indeed ’57.   

Again thanks for taking the time in taking these.

BTW The pictures looks great not fuzzy so you were ready for the extreme cold weather when you got into the garage.   

[Roger Zimmermann]

You are welcome Jose! Remember that the part number for the Brougham unit is different, but of course, I don't know the differences. Somebody with a regular 57 car should send a picture to you or post it here.
As I had to unload the seats, I did not feel the cold and I had clothes according to the temperature.
I just saw that the grommets for the unit are hard like rock; something to do next Spring!

[J. Gomez]

I just saw that the grommets for the unit are hard like rock; something to do next Spring!

When you are ready to tackle them just shoot me a PM and I can share what I did on my side to get them replace for the units on my side. 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks! I had no envy to check if I don't have something suitable in my rubber parts. It could be that I have grommets for voltage regulators which are similar.

[J. Gomez]

Thanks! I had no envy to check if I don't have something suitable in my rubber parts. It could be that I have grommets for voltage regulators which are similar.

Roger,

Well here you go hope you can find these around your parts cabinets. 

I've used two flat round rubber washers 5/16" x 11/16" OD in between them I used a 7/16" O.D. x 1/4" I.D. x 3/32" wall thickness "O" ring. The "O" ring slides inside the opening hole on the chassis and all three rubber pieces are thick that once you bolt the unit and it stops (the metal raisers raisers/stoppers) it compresses all the rubber perfectly.

I did use rubber grommets and frankly the ones I've use were not thick enough to be compressed once the tighten the bolt.   

Good luck...!

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Thanks Jose, I'm aware of the high voltage in these units. From memory it is meant to be around 800 volts on the 54. Before I poke around with a voltmeter I will re-instal the original vibrator, I can get it to work if I flick the contacts (I opened the can). If it works then I will know for certain it is the solid state vibrator that is the problem. I suspect it is because (again from memory and I could be wrong) the voltage required for a tube radio is more like 400 to 500 volts. Phil

[Roger Zimmermann]

Well here you go hope you can find these around your parts cabinets.

I've used two flat round rubber washers 5/16" x 11/16" OD in between them I used a 7/16" O.D. x 1/4" I.D. x 3/32" wall thickness "O" ring. The "O" ring slides inside the opening hole on the chassis and all three rubber pieces are thick that once you bolt the unit and it stops (the metal raisers raisers/stoppers) it compresses all the rubber perfectly.

Will see in due time!
Otherwise, your idea will be retained to make the grommets.

[Hillbillycat]

I replaced the hardened rubber grommets on my 56 Autronic Eye amp and regulator with ordinary rubber grommets that had the correct size. For replicating the brass insert I used the sawed-off neck of .30-06 Springfield cartidges. Made a jig with a bolt and nut (the nut was filed to a cone shape) to crimp the open end of the cartridge in a way the orignal brass rivets were done.

Maybe long necked brass rivets from saddlery supply could work, too. But I´m not sure if they areavailable with such a long neck. I just used the cartridges, since they were available on my bench.